Welcome to Queensland and its graffiti sign: another border crossed and the clocks go forward again. I didn't need to adjust my wristwatch as I hadn't worn it since I left Victoria four months earlier!
First stop in the Sunshine State, Camooweal. Population 300; and they, and more, were all attending a funeral at the community hall in the main street. The majority of the mourners were indigenous, all dressed up in their Sunday best; bright, crisp collared shirts with the men wearing enormous Akubras. Despite the sombre occasion, there were still plenty of smiles and hellos from the locals. The service station was the first we had come across in a few thousand kilometres that employed aboriginal serving staff instead of foreign backpackers. Camooweal is a real Aussie outback town with a strong sense of community.
The flat grasslands of the last 400 kilometres eventually changed to rocky outcrops as we approached Mt Isa, one of the world's richest deposits of copper, silver and zinc and home of the infamous MP Bob Katter. Following a quick look in the information centre and a stock up on beverages, we made our way to Fountain Springs Rest Area for our first night in Queensland. Pulling up alongside the camper trailer couple, this time we had to make conversation. They had been gold fossicking in the NW and were on the way to find some gems south of Winton before returning to their Hervey Bay home. Everybody is going about their own adventure and has their own story to tell.
After a night spent under the covers, finally due to a cooler evening, we rose early to continue our journey along the Overlander's Way. Passing through Cloncurry, home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, our attention was captured at Julia Creek, specifically 'At the Creek', the multi award winning visitor information centre. Three railway fettler's cottages and the old gaol have been restored to take us on a ecological and cultural journey. The central theme is the Great Artesian Basin and its role in the shire's survival. We wondered were they got their water from! We kept an eye out for the endangered Julia Creek dunnart. This small insect eating marsupial, thought to be extinct until 1992, is found only in the Mitchell grass plains of McKinlay Shire but can be seen at certain times for feeding At the Creek. Unfortunately when we were visiting he was asleep, but there is enough video and information to get the idea.
We decided to stay for lunch while we did the washing at the cute and conveniently located laundromat. The Julia Creek Hotel is the place to go for a counter meal; a recently refurbished grand old building well patronised by the locals enjoying a cold ale after Saturday morning trading, with all the men sitting at the bar and all the ladies in the lounge area. The chicken parmigiama and lamb shanks were not disappointing, and neither was the atmosphere which was devoid of poker machines and various sports blaring from multiple television screens. The way pubs should be I reckon; a place for good old fashioned conversation. There is free camping for self contained vehicles on the eastern edge of town by the water, but we pushed on to dinosaur country.
Richmond is the home of Australia's premier marine fossil museum,
Kronosaurus Korner, built to showcase the 100 million year old vertebrate fossil ‘Richmond plesiosaur', which was found on a nearby property in 1989. Richmond is the geographical centre of where the Cretaceous Inland Sea once was 120 million years ago, and the fossils are prolific. You can even dig for your own at either of the two fossicking sites 12 kilometres north of the town, and don't be surprised if you get lucky.
Our overnight camp at Marathon rest area was the coolest since leaving Tom Price, and the flat landscape made for easy stargazing from the comfort of Delvy's bed.
The Flinders is Queensland's longest river and runs through Hughenden, also on the dinosaur trail. Large sculptures of the prehistoric creatures (and an enormous windmill) are dotted around this town of fine weatherboard buildings.
Continuing east, we had rest stops at Prairie, and old Cobb and Co depot; Torrens Creek, a WWII ammunition supply dump; White Mountains lookout, where we crossed the Great Dividing Range (550 metres); Pentland, home of Men Without a Shed selling fruit and veg, homemade bikkies and chilli sauce, and; Charters Towers, the gold mining town that once hosted its own stock exchange and has numerous heritage listed sites.
Our last night inland was at Macrossan campsite at the foot of the historic Burdekin River Rail Bridge. It was cool enough for Gary to light a campfire, cooking spuds and pumpkin in the hot coals for our dinner. The mighty Burdekin River was named by Ludwig Leichhardt as he undertook one of the country's longest land exploration journeys, travelling from the Darling Downs to Port Essington from 1 October 1844 to 17 December 1845. He was the most authoritative early recorders of Australia’s environment, discovering excellent pastoral country and the best trained natural scientist to explore Australia to that time. It was a pity he vanished without a trace on his next expedition, the first to attempt an east-west crossing.
We have nearly completed our own exploration but from west to east, albeit in far greater style. Although there have been many before us and there will be many more to follow, it's still an adventure. It's also an appreciation of just how big this country really is.
Tomorrow we will smell the sea again.
