Saturday 17 December 2016

Whitsunday sailing

At last, a four day break in the 'park', as locals like to call it. Not just any old park - it's the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in the Whitsundays, Queensland. 



Sailing, snorkelling, fishing and relaxing with a good book were the primary activities, as well as plenty of time to just soak up the views.

Departing from Shute Harbour, thanks to Sunsail, we hoisted the main and head sail of Ali Cat, a Leopard 444 catamaran, and let the wind decide where we would anchor for the night. At this time of year though the winds are a little fickle but there was just enough north easterly to get us into Cid Harbour for the evening. 
Ali Cat
While I had the luxury of an experienced local skipper (my husband) to navigate these waters and provide the commentary, I absorbed myself in the pages of 100 Magic Miles to bring myself up to speed. Now in its 11th edition, David and Carolyn Colfelt’s guide provides exhaustive and reliable detail about every nook and cranny of the Whitsundays. Contrary to popular belief, the enormous all-weather anchorage of Cid Harbour was not used as a marshalling point for the US Fleet prior to WWII’s Battle of the Coral Sea, but was used occasionally as anchorage for the Australian and Allied navies. 
Sunset at Cid Harbour
For spectacular views of the Whitsunday Islands, our younger, accompanying Italian friends, Ale & G, donned backpacks for the challenging three hour return hike from Sawmill Beach on Whitsunday Island to Whitsunday Peak (437m). Due to my inappropriate footwear and the heat, I opted for the easy one way one kilometre stroll through the dry vine forest; complete with massive hoop pines, to the stunning Dugong Beach, where my dinghy pick up was waiting to transport me to the first snorkel site of the trip.

Looking fabulous in my bright blue stinger suit, I grabbed my mask, snorkel and fins and plunged from the dinghy into the flooding tide between Ross Islet and Cid Island. Pretty soft corals and numerous fish rushed by as the current spat me out onto the sand spit at the southern end of the islet.

With the morning’s activities complete we weighed anchor and tracked south to navigate our way to Gulnare Inlet for some exploring. Whilst we didn’t need to visit such a well-protected anchorage in this sublime weather, it was a chance for me to take the wheel and practice some Coxswain skills. There is reef all around and a back bearing is required to safely enter the inlet to avoid going aground. I was glad I was under the tuition of an experienced teacher! 
View of Henning Island from Gulnare Inlet 
As we were still on a rising tide, as soon as we dropped anchor we were off exploring the mangrove-lined estuary and creeks. We tried to find the old tramway that was built to move timber from the surrounding hills in the early 1900’s, but the growth was too thick and the tide was turning against us. We did however find someone’s doomsday stash of diesel fuel and other survival equipment, hidden under camouflaged netting along a well-trodden track rising up from a natural stone landing.

As the afternoon sun reached intensity it was time for a siesta in air-conditioned luxury. With three private cabins, a large saloon area, and shaded forward and aft decks, there was no shortage of places for four people to chill out. 
Ghigo & Alessandra
On sunset, Gary took to the dinghy for a spot of fishing in amongst the mangroves while G and I calculated the depth and time of tide required to exit the inlet on the rising tide the next day using the rule of twelfths. Somehow I don’t think the glass of wine helped with the speed of calculation but eventually we ascertained that we could depart at 10.00am, therefore we could all have a much needed sleep in.

The silence was ominous overnight. – not even the sound of water lapping on the hulls could be heard. Such stillness is rare on a boat.

After completing a few jobs on the vessel and checking for any maintenance issues, we departed Gulnare and tried for a snorkel off Henning Island. The north wind and strong current made it not ideal, so we sailed north along Whitsunday Passage to Homestead Bay on the eastern side of Cid Island. The current was pretty strong but there were some interesting coral formations and a few fish to look at. 
Navigating out of Gulnare Inlet
Our next destination was Hook Passage and the drop off point for the Whitsunday Cairn trail. G was keen for another challenging bushwalk up 386 metres, which only took him less than two hours return – well under the suggested four hours. While he was sweating it out, the rest of us went exploring in the dinghy. I envied the Hook Island Wilderness Resort opposite, now closed. What I could do with that to bring it back to life! If only I had an endless supply of money. The Hook Underwater Observatory still stands looking quite dilapidated, but it was once the showcase of the Whitsunday Islands when it was opened in 1969 after three years of construction. Ray Blackwood’s Whitsunday Islands: an historical dictionary has all the details, including the interesting fact that two hundred old car bodies were dumped at the base of the structure to provide a habitat for fish and coral. There were no decommissioned navy ships available back then!

Time for a snorkel, and although the tide was still too high the reef area between Scrub Hen Beach and Hook Passage was extensive with a fabulous variety of coral and fish plus a few turtles. Gary cast the fishing rod line a few times and surprisingly hooked a coral trout. Unfortunately it slipped off the hook and slid in under the floor of the dinghy into the hull. It took some time to get it out by raising one end from the davit, but eventually it plopped out and swam away. It was undersized anyway.

Gary the dinghy man, Hook Passage
It was time to head for our overnight anchorage at Macona Inlet, chosen to meet up with a friend who was skippering a group of Venezuelans for a week. As we slowly motored towards the far end of the inlet a baby hammerhead shark swam up to the starboard hull. These still and shallow waters provide a perfect breeding ground for hammerheads so enter if you dare.

Orca at Macona Inlet
Our last day and we saved the best snorkel spot till last – Ravens Cove, the southern end near Turtle Head Rock. The tide was low (the best time to snorkel), visibility was about 10 metres, and the coral was stunning. So many hard and soft varieties, and the fish life was abundant both small and large. I even saw an albino bat fish. After two hours in the water it was time to head back to Shute Harbour, via Unsafe Passage through the Molle Island group. 
Ravens Cove snorkeling site

Through Unsafe Passage between Mid and North Molle Island
There are so many wonderful places to visit in the Whitsunday Island group that doesn’t have to include the place everyone goes to, Whitehaven Beach. Can’t wait for the next trip! 
Chart AUS252 - Whitsunday Group. Don't sail with out it!