Barging to Hamilton

For a day trip to Hamilton Island (Hammo as the locals call it) with a difference, we took a ride on Samson: with the master's permission of course.

Samson

Shute Harbour

With two scheduled departures from Shute Harbour Monday to Friday, we checked with the crew first before boarding, then watched supplies for the busiest island in the Whitsundays be loaded and secured for the one hour crossing.

Loading at Shute Harbour

Owned and operated by Hamilton Island, Samson is a landing barge with a carrying capacity of 334 tonnes and can transport up to 260 000 litres of fuel or water. She brings across all the necessary items required for running an island resort: food, alcohol, linen, grocery orders, removal trucks, buggies, maintenance and earth moving equipment and supplies....the list goes on. Stuff has to be removed from the island too; for example, dirty linen and rubbish.

Approaching Hamilton Island marina

The bridge deck

Constructed in 1982 by Keith Williams, and now owned by the Oatley family, Hamilton Island as a tourist destination has continued to develop and prosper. There is a permanent resident population of around 1300 people, with the capacity for over three thousand overnight guests at anyone time. That's a lot of supplies!

Hammo is always busy, but there's plenty to do. Have lunch in one of the numerous restaurants/eateries, have a swim in one of the many pools, drink cocktails in one of the countless bars, play mini golf, big golf, tennis or archery, sail a catamaran or snorkel in Catseye Bay, take a bushwalk, pet an animal in the wildlife park, visit the art galleries, take the glass elevator to the top floor of the Reef View Hotel for a sensational view of surrounding islands and the main resort below. And more.

Departing Hammo

Whatever you choose to do, just make sure you don't miss the boat back!

For more information on the making of Hamilton Island, read The Hamilton Island Story by James Alward.

Beefalo & Pork

The sun was blazing down on us as we picked our way through the paddock, but we knew we didn't have to suffer for long as we were soon to be distracted. After much hollering and shaking of the food pail, it wasn't long before eight small charcoal grey piglets came bounding out from underneath the cool of the Pandanus, followed closely by mum.

It was our second farm gate visit to the Whitsunday Farm Butchers, and this time we took along visiting family for an outing with a difference. Christina della Valle not only breeds free range Berkshire pigs, she is also a Beefalo breeder. Beefalo is beef cattle bred with bison, and the monthly open gate day includes some tastings of the very meat she breeds. Free from chemicals, hormones and any other unnecessary additives that tend to be put into the animal's feed and in the processing, your taste buds will wonder at the flavour.

Cooked expertly by Peter, you'll be fighting the children off to get a taste of the maple bacon, beefalo spare ribs, pork sausage and combination rissoles. Pay $10 for the privilege, or buy some meat to take home instead. You'll be hooked and never want to visit a supermarket meat aisle again.

Look for Christina's van at the weekly Saturday Airlie Beach Markets, pop into the Crocodile Cafe on Shute Harbour Road, or call ahead and visit the farm to get your vacuum packed Beefalo or Berkshire pig portions.

Living in the Whitsundays - Proserpine

The Whitsundays is well known for its 74 Island Wonders in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. It truly is stunning, but there are some other scenic areas that don't make it in the brochure. First, the town of Proserpine.

The sugar cane and grazing town of Proserpine is a 10 minute drive to the south of us, with the airport a further 15 minutes’ further on towards the city of Mackay. 

Proserpine from Tawvale Heights

Proserpine, named by the explorer George Dalrymple after Persephone, the Greek goddess of spring growth, has a population of about 3300 people. It has all the facilities one would expect in a small country town, but of particular interest to me is the library, entertainment centre, 50 metre swimming pool, museum, sewing store, tennis courts, op shops, supermarket and post office. The town is just the right size and busyness to usually get a parking spot right out the front of the required service, or to amble down one side of the two block Main Street and back up the other.

Main Street, Proserpine early weekday morning

Cafe 22 is well worth deviating off the Bruce Highway for its great coffee, excellent wholesome food and friendly, efficient service. The artworks out the back and Colour Me Crazy around the corner are also worthy of some attention.

Colour Me Crazy lives up to its name

Proserpine is a mill town, and first began crushing sugar cane as a cooperative in 1897, producing 11 000 tonnes. Now owned by a Singaporean company, the mill crushes over 2 million tonnes annually. 

Sugarcane takes 12-16 months to mature, reaching up to 4 metres in height, and is ready for harvesting between June and December when rainfall is less frequent and the plant's sugar content is at its highest. The mill operates 24/7 during this time, and Proserpine bustles to life.

The 62 metre tall mill chimneys at full steam. Wiley's Jeep in Foreground.

Traditionally, the cane has been burnt before harvesting to remove leaves, weeds and other trash which impede harvesting and milling. Some farmers still burn off, which makes a spectacular sight in the early evening as the 6 metre flames race through the cane: it's all over in a matter of minutes. However, it is now common for the sugarcane to be harvested green rather than burnt. Green harvesting recycles nitrogen in the plant by leaving trash cuttings from harvesting in the field.

Cane replanted after harvesting - January

The volunteer-run Proserpine Museum tells the story of sugar cane, from its hand cutting beginnings through to the evolution of the harvesters, as well as the life of well known Proserpinian Sydney Cotton, the local invention of the Glass Louvre Window System, and the nearby Australian Field Experiment Station of WWII. 

Located 26 kilometres inland from Proserpine on the Proserpine River is Peter Faust Dam, or Lake Proserpine, constructed for irrigation in the dry season, flood mitigation in the wet season, and a water supply to the town. Anticipated to take 10 years to fill, it reached 98% capacity in the big wet of 1991; just a couple of months after completion in December 1990. It's a well known fishing area and The Fish Stocking Association ensures that Barramundi and Sooty Grunter are plentiful for the local and visiting anglers.

Proserpine Dam 

Proserpine has a humid subtropical climate that consists of two main seasons: the wet (November to April) and the dry (May to November). The average rainfall in the wet is 1400mm, which transforms the countryside from a dry dust bowl to a lush green carpet. The best time to visit is during the dry, as it is cool and pleasant with scarce rainfall and low humidity. The peak season for tourism is during the winter months owing to the reliable extended runs of clear weather which are ideal for outdoor activities. 

Surrounding countryside in September

New home

I’ve just read about a woman that has sold up her business for life on the road in a fifth wheeler. We have just done the opposite. Well, sort of. We’ve bought a house so we are no longer on the road, but we still have the motorhome. Delvy has her own parking bay, undercover beside the shed, which is adjacent to our house that overlooks the valley below.

Our house & shed

So here we stay for awhile, earning some money in between looking after the garden, tinkering in the shed, and catching glimpses of the threatened Proserpine Rock Wallaby from the balcony. They are hard to spot in amongst the thick dry vine forest, but at dawn this morning we spied the first one from our bedroom window, grazing on the grass outside the shed. Easily startled, it wasn’t long before he knew he was being looked at and ran away into the bush.

Sunrise from Hill Fort

We have seen a few Lace Monitors climbing up the remaining tall trees of this once logged hillside. Last week two together stopped to bask in the afternoon sun for a while, halfway up the tall trunk, before heading back down to earth.

Lace Monitor
 

At nearly 300 metres above sea level it’s a steep climb (average 15% gradient) up the road for 1.5 kilometres to our driveway. It’s hard enough on foot let alone on the bike, so I park at the bottom for my early morning ride around the block (22 kms). Or, I brave the downhill run and hope the brakes don’t get too hot, and Gary picks me up at the bottom an hour or so later. It’s still too warm for a MTB ride in the Conway National Park, so I ride solo on the road at the crack of dawn before the harsh sun beats down on me. It’s pretty at that time of the day; there is often a layer of fog hovering above the sugar cane fields, giving a perception of coolness. It burns away immediately the sun strikes, but usually I am back up the hill by then where it’s about 3 degrees cooler.

Bottom of Staniland Drive

 

Top of Staniland Drive

Our driveway

Being up high means we catch the breeze, when there is some at this time of year. It’s the wet season now – hot and humid. The sweat runs down your back just standing still. A sharp and rude contrast from the dry air of the Victorian alpine region where we spent the last two summers.

Life in the tropics is so very different in all aspects. First of all, it’s hot. Did I mention that? For 3 months of the year you can cut the air with a knife. The bugs are ferocious; mosquitoes, March flies, and any other creepy crawly you care to mention.  And when you live in the forest, scrub itch is rife. Cover up and soak yourself in heavy duty insect repellent when walking (or gardening!) in the forest, otherwise you’ll be scratching in places that start to get embarrassing. For the other nine months of the year, the climate is ideal. Daytime temperatures in the 20’s and overnight below twenty Celsius, with the relative humidity at a much more bearable level – around 60%.

Carport - back of house

Side view with carport

Air conditioning – the world’s greatest invention – makes life very comfortable in our Hill Fort on Mount Lucas in Strathdickie. We face north towards Gregory and the Gregory River, with a carpet of cane fields spread out all the way to State forest.  It’s like we are in an amphitheatre, surrounded by a ring of forest but still have a view of the bright green world below.



View from balcony of Hill Fort

 

Rear courtyard
 

Kitchen with view of courtyard

 

Living area



So now that I am in the one spot for awhile, and have a beautiful view of the valley from my study window, there is no excuse to not write more frequently. I aim to post once a week. Writing this down may make it happen! Meanwhile, there's some gardening to do.....