Queensland

After a lot of stops and starts due to road works, I crossed in to the Sunshine State without knowing. I twigged when the driving ability was noticeably worse; tailgating, lack of indication, cutting in front...general disrespectful behaviour. Although it could just be general road rage due to the high volume of traffic around; nothing to do with Queenslanders at all. Hmmm, time will tell.

Lunch with Uncle Russ and Denise at a trendy café in Palm Beach to catch up on family news was a welcome break before plunging back into the horrors of multi lane traffic. I had to pick Gary up from Brisbane airport the next morning, so time was too short to catch up with all my friends in BrisVegas; plus I didn't want to negotiate traffic any more than I had too. Three turns off the freeway and I was safely parked up in Lea's front yard at Woolloongabba, only mildly shaken up. I thought the traffic was bad on the Sydney to Newcastle motorway; but it didn't even come close to the high speed four lane bumper to bumper insanity that is from the Gold Coast to Brisbane. I think the eastern seaboard is going to explode with traffic. Anyway, soothing beverages, tasty home cooked snacks and relaxing company in the backyard soon had my pulse rate back to normal. A walk to Southbank enlivened the senses as we wandered through the blazing pink bougainvillea and extensive vegetable and herb garden, Epicurious. Well done Brisbane for growing the biggest community garden for all to share. With a collected few silver beet leaves and a handful of basil and parsley to add to our lunch, we had to stop for a coffee to admire the beautifully fitted out pale blue Kombi van, Lost Bean.

The journey to the airport was not too challenging as the route went through my old stomping ground, Fortitude Valley. The 30 minute free 'wait for pick up' parking area is another great initiative for Brisbane: saves driving around and around in circles. With husband now in the navigators chair, we headed north to the Sunshine Coast for a few days to visit the in-laws and friends. It was good to get out on the MTB's again together, returning to Tewantin State Forest for another spin around the trails. We also rode along Buddina Beach and beyond, and Finch took us for a tour around Noosa and the National Park.

Buddina Beach

Finch & Gary - Noosa
 

It was an early start to keep heading north; destination Yeppoon so at least a five hour drive plus stops along the way. We enjoyed a night at the Mercure Capricorn Resort, dining out at the exquisite Japanese Restaurant and soaking up the tropical view of the stunning pool. The last time I stayed here was 14 years ago (it was owned by Rydges then) as a travel consultant for Tourism Queensland. It was from here I headed up to the Whitsundays to have a look around, and it was there that I met Gary. A poignant moment really. So, it was here at the Capricorn Resort that we decided what our plans are for the next five years or so: stay put in the Whitsundays, earn some decent money, buy a little property and enjoy short breaks around the country.

 

Picnic lunch on the road

View from balcony, Mercure Capricorn Resort
 

An early swim in and around the pool before hitting the road again for the final leg to home. I used to think the stretch from Rockhampton to Sarina (300kms) was rather dull. However, after travelling around the whole country I have seen even duller scenery. Eye spy does get a little monotonous after the two hour mark, so we invented another game: quote a line or two from a song that contains the word 'love', and the other person has to guess the song and artist. We're still going with that one!

 

And so we arrive back in the Whitsundays, to Cannonvale. I've now done the big lap. Right around. I think it should be a bucket list item for everyone. It's a big country with so much to see: so many amazing and varied landscapes. It's hard to chose where to stay put for awhile, but sometimes the line in the sand has to be drawn. So, this is our home for the time being. We'll get jobs, buy a place to live and look forward to welcoming visitors. In the meantime, we'll enjoy the view from our temporary digs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The NSW Mid to North Coast

The Sunday traffic was overwhelming as I drove from Bathurst to Newcastle. I'm not used to busy roads and high volume traffic: I've been living in remote areas for a long time and usually have the road to myself. Once I entered the outskirts of Sydney (and I mean the outskirts: Bilpin), the road rage was apparent, as time poor people rushed to their destination as the weekend was drawing to a close. I skirted western Sydney to join the stream of cars on the freeway north, feeling the pressure. It was with great relief when I pulled up at mum's place after some four hours of continuous concentration: it was not a pleasurable driving experience; it was hard work! And people do that every day! Geez. I guess that's one of the reasons why I elect to live the quiet life in rural areas. Too many people equates to too much traffic, and brings about a lot more agro. Part and parcel of surviving the rat race I suppose. Though I must join it if I wish to visit family and friends.

So I spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening reclined on mum's couch, recovering from not only the stressful journey, but also  from the big reunion weekend. Lots of chatting and recalling memories can be exhausting! Thank goodness for the sanctuary of mum's home (and mum!); it's a peaceful setting amongst a backdrop of large eucalypts and the sounds of native and migratory birds, just up the road from the shores of Lake Macquarie.

This was to be a short visit this time, so lunch and dinner dates were arranged to catch up with friends and my sister and niece, in between shopping with mum. The summer wardrobe was slim and needed a top up before returning to live in the tropics. Goodbye thermals; hello singlet tops! The shopping list was steadily ticked off, and in our travels we came across an old friend who we last encountered when we visited Kong Kong; Lucky Cat. Perhaps it's a good omen!

I stuffed the Subi with all my new purchases, plus other items that have been 'in storage' at my brother's and mum's for some years, including the wedding Persian rug. It is time to gather all belongings spread far and wide over the decades and take them to our chosen home base. Although I'm not sure what we'll do with the shipping container in Hobart at the moment! I'm sure things will become a bit clearer once we are settled some more and have gained employment (an interview this week is looking promising!).

A teary farewell to mum and it was off to Coffs Harbour. I would have preferred to take the New England Highway inland, but as I was time poor it was straight up the Pacific. It would have been great to catch up with more friends along the way, but not to be this time. Actually I think I could spend most of the year visiting friends and family, but it is time to get on with it I suppose. Job, house, veggie garden....then do some more travelling after that!

The traffic was surprisingly light along the coastal highway, a route I have not done for many years. The dual carriageway as far as Nambucca Heads made the journey very pleasant indeed - lovely scenery too. A spin around the Coffs Creek track on arrival into Coffs Harbour got rid of a few cobwebs after the five hour drive. Plus a ride to the harbour and beach with friend Brian early the following morning, after a pleasant evening in with a tasty risotto and accompanying glass of red.

I could have stayed at Coffs for a week, but it was to be another five hour driving day, with a stop at the Gold Coast for a lunch date with my uncle. Queensland, here I come.

School reunion

It's been 30 years since I completed Year 10 at Bathurst High School: 28 since accomplishing the holy grail; the HSC. I was looking forward to eying my old class mates again. I missed the 10 and 20 year get together as I was living in some far away place; but wasn't really fussed about it either. This time though I was happy to go back in time. Plus I had the means to get there too. Overall I enjoyed my school years; there were some good and fun people there. There were also a couple of bullies that liked to make one's life miserable, but generally the good times out weighed the bad. Playing sport and escaping to the top floor library kept me sane, and I did enjoy some of the engaging teachers and the lessons they delivered. Each student has different memories of school life, and their own perception of others, so there was some trepidation amongst us as we began to gather in the City of Bathurst. (Australia's oldest inland city for that matter!)

Bathurst High School

The weekend festivities were kicked off on the Friday by myself and Gavin, our school captain, with a ride from Eglinton to Perthville on the MTB's. The afternoon was hot, dry and windy so refreshments were required on the return journey at The Church Bar. A handful gathered there  afterwards, but I headed over to stay the night with my Welsh friends.

Gavin and me out on our MTB's

Many more former Bathurst High students gathered for the school tour on the Saturday afternoon, and many more again for the evening 'do' at the Oxford Hotel (a somewhat insalubrious venue back in the 80's). Curiosity was simmering and uneasiness gave way to genuine delight at seeing old faces: most for the first time in 30 years. Some people had not changed in looks at all: others unrecognisable, until you looked closely, at their eyes; they never change.

School tour underway

"This is weird", many voiced. "So strange". But the awkward moment was indeed just that; a moment. The room was soon filled with laughter, wonder and continuous chatter of much reminiscing and catching up. It really was like stepping back in time: we just all looked a little older. People fundamentally remain the same over the years; so it was a great pleasure to reconnect with old friends, even though many years have passed it seemed a little like yesterday. Same sense of humour, same outlook on life, same personality. We all (about 70 of us) decided to not wait another 10 years before catching up again. I look forward to it!

I stayed the night with one of only two girls I remained in touch with since leaving school, who lives up the road from our old family home in Eglinton. It's always a relaxing visit, amongst all the animals.

Off to Newcastle next!

Oberon

It was a beautiful scenic drive from Yass to Oberon, via Goulburn, Taralga and crossing the Abercrombie River. The sky was blue, the fields green, the river the colour of tea. As I approached Oberon, the highest town in the Blue Mountains at 1113 metres elevation, the swishing sound of the pine forest and its sharp scent spoke of familiarity. My brother has lived here for years and I worked at nearby Jenolan Caves for a bit, so have spent much time riding, bushwalking, camping and yabbying in this beautiful area.

After sitting in the car for a few hours, a ride around the town was in order, especially since it was a glorious sunny Spring afternoon. The rhododendrons and azaleas were in full bloom; the vibrant colours so picturesque.

I rode along the Oberon Cycleway, which conveniently ends about 5kms out of town at the first gate to my brother's bush block, located at Hazelgrove, right alongside the old railway station. This site will soon be restored by the Oberon Tarana Heritage Railway group (OTHR), who are preserving the 24.3km long track and its associated stations to one day operate as a heritage tourist railway. The train line runs behind my brother's 50 acre block, past an old eucalypt oil distilling plant and onto Tarana. The railway line first operated in 1923 and the last train completed the journey in 1979. It has one of the steepest gradients of any track in New South Wales and is a very scenic railway as it descends from the Oberon Plateau through wooded hills and farming country to the beautiful Tarana Valley, crossing two creeks and the Fish River. The bush has taken over any infrastructure left, but OTHR is determined and on track to achieve their objectives: they already have two locomotives and other rolling stock in the Oberon yard ready to go when the line restoration is complete. Something to look out for!

 

It's another couple of kms on a rough and steeply undulating dirt road to my brother's actual property, but this is what I love about the mountain bike: it can go anywhere. There were a few trees and limbs down from the huge snowstorm the week before, so the chainsaw will be kept busy in the coming days and months.

Back over on the other side of town is the Lions lookout, presenting glimpses of the surrounding countryside, Oberon dam (the town's water supply: currently at 67% capacity), and a smattering of houses.

A tour of the Oberon Primary School, where my brother is the handy man extraordinaire; a tour of my nephew's engineering workshop, where he is in the final stages of completing his apprenticeship; and a meal at the local pub rounded out my Oberon visit this time. Thanks for a fun visit, and for turning the weather on. I didn't need my thermals; we didn't even light the fire!

Next stop, the Bathurst High School - Class of 1984 - reunion.

Another road trip - Victoria to Whitsundays in the Subi

Well, I have just about come full circle since May, arriving back in Kyneton to witness Spring in full swing. Time to get out the antihistamines! Another road trip, but this time in the Subaru: it needs relocating to our chosen home in the Whitsundays, along with the mountain bikes.





Kyneton river walk

 

 

 

Landing in Melbourne, the air is crisp and cool; I’m wearing jeans for the first time in months. The brightness of the fresh green foliage is almost glaring against the backdrop of the cloudless blue sky. The winter caretaker of the Subi, Frank, greeted me with a sparkling vehicle which I then drove to the beautiful town of Kyneton. A weekend with Alex and Steve, winter caretakers of the mountain bikes, was spent riding and indulging in gourmet food.

 

With the Subi loaded up, it was time to return briefly to Mt Buller, via Diggers Rest to collect Frank and via Mansfield to purchase a bike rack. The High Country was looking magnificent – a perfect Spring day. A couple of quick hello/goodbyes, a few more photos and it was back down the mountain that I know so well.

 

It felt strange just visiting as Mt Buller has been home for the last two years. I shall miss it. 

No time for a last ride down the Delatite River trail (a Deli run as we locals fondly say), but a couple of laps around the block through the Merrijig countryside with Ted finished off the day nicely. So did feeding the calf!

 

 

I awoke to another bright clear day ready to hit the road. A quick cuppa and garden tour with one of the tennis ladies, followed by an op shop visit to get a cushion for the long drive ahead, it was time to head north. I thought I would take the scenic route over the range to the King Valley, stopping for some roadside fresh walnuts and tomato chutney and to pick a bag of lemons from a friend’s tree at Moyhu. The Subi will be rather full by the time I get to central Queensland!

Elaine's house, Mansfield



I made my way to the Hume Highway near Wangaratta, and it was full steam ahead into New South Wales. It’s been awhile since I have travelled at that speed and on such a huge road. The countryside was scenic: rolling green hills sprinkled with large eucalypts and happily grazing sheep. I stopped at Holbrook for a picnic lunch next to the big black submarine, and at picturesque Gundagai for a leg stretch and some photos.

 

Prince Albert Bridge, Gundagai

The afternoon sun was getting lower so Yass was the chosen overnight stop, with the Colonial Lodge Motor Inn the chosen bed. It’s been awhile since I’ve stayed in a hotel room too! The Australian Hotel was recommended for dinner, and the Atlantic salmon didn’t disappoint. Then it was time to watch some TV in bed, as you do in hotel rooms, but I was kept up later than I anticipated as I had to watch the Gough Whitlam documentary. What a great man.

Oberon next, to see my brother!

 

Coral Bay revisited

Click here for an article I wrote on Coral Bay, published online at www.mildred.co
Note: the land photos were taken by me. Matty had the waterproof camera for the underwater shots.

Mt Buller revisited

Below is an article I wrote last year on Mt Buller, which was published in The Wanderer, the Campervan and Motorhome Club of Australia magazine.

Published April 2013 edition of the ‘The Wanderer’, Caravan and Motorhome Club of Australia magazine.

Summer Alpine Retreat  -  Words & pictures by Katherine Sellers

It’s been a hot and dry summer in North East Victoria, but what better way to escape the heat than to visit the picturesque alpine village of Mt Buller, on the edge of Alpine National Park. At 1600 metres above sea level, it’s at least 10 degrees cooler than the valleys below.  While traditionally a winter skiing playground, Mt Buller is becoming increasingly popular as a summer destination. Visit midweek and you can often have the place to yourself to enjoy the magnificent alpine views and endless sunsets. There’s nothing quite like being on top of the world!

Mt Buller resort village is about a 45 minute drive from the nearest service town of Mansfield, and 3 hours’ drive from Melbourne. It’s located 16 km uphill from the locality of Mirimbah at the base, and is a steep and winding drive on a well maintained, smooth bitumen road. Once you reach the top, turn left at the clock tower and drive up and around to a large flat parking area.  This is Cow Camp (where they used to bring the cattle for summer grazing in the 1930s) and is a good base to explore the village.

Outside the winter months, Mt Buller is quiet and sleepy but has a small supermarket, post office, and a handful of dining and accommodation options. On weekends the place livens up a little with keen road and mountain bikers, runners and a smattering of bushwalkers. For information on what’s happening and what to do on the mountain, visit reception at the Alpine Central building. For the history buffs, the National Alpine Museum is located on Level 1 and houses Australia's largest collection of skiing and alpine memorabilia, featuring a variety of old photographs and film, books, snowmobiles, skis, boots and clothing. It also details Mt Buller’s journey from a cattleman’s run to Australia’s premier alpine resort.

For those who like the great outdoors, there’s a lot to see and do in the High Country over summer and autumn. The inaugural biennial Mt Buller Sculpture Award has just been created for Australia’s first ever mountain-top Sculpture Park. From now until the end of April, twenty two outdoor sculptures are on display within the resort village and surrounds. The winning work of art will be exhibited in perpetuity amongst alpine wild flowers in summer and the majestic snow covered ranges in winter.

After strolling around the village square, take the two hour Summit Nature Walk from the clock tower to Mt Buller summit at 1805 metres; or you can drive to the summit car park just below the peak if you’re not feeling too energetic. The breathtaking views across the Alpine National Park provide a fitting backdrop for the sculptures, along with the varied and colourful wild flowers and grasses and the twisted branches of the snow gums.  On a clear day you can see many of the Alpine peaks: in the east Mt Bogong (at 1986 metres is Victoria’s highest) and Mt Feathertop; Mt Buffalo in the north; and Mt McDonald in the south. You can also catch a glimpse of Lake Eildon’s 515km shoreline in the west.

There is plenty of wildlife to observe along the way; currawongs and ravens are constant companions, but keep an eye out for the yellow tailed black cockatoos and gang gangs feeding off the snow gum nuts. Of course snakes are about too, so watch your step! If you venture out at night, you may be lucky and spot a wombat on the trails, or a mountain pygmy possum feeding on the countless Bogong Moths that migrate to enjoy a cooler summer.

For the avid bushwalker, the five hour return walk from Mt Buller to Mt Stirling (1749m) also rewards you with commanding views of the untouched mountain forest, and a grand perspective of Mt Buller. There are a few steep uphill (then downhill!) sections but Howqua Gap Hut is a comfortable place for a rest each way. To shorten the walk, you can take the 4WD from Mt Buller to Howqua Gap along the Corn Hill Road track for about 5km, and walk up to Mt Sterling from there.

There’s an easier three hour downhill walk from the resort village to Mirimbah, where you are surrounded by huge Alpine Ash and tree-ferns, and make multiple foot bridge crossings of the Delatite River. This trail is a highlight of the area and well recommended. Alternatively, for an adrenalin rush you can ride the 10km Delatite River Trail on a mountain bike: bring your own or hire one for the day. Reward yourself with a great coffee and a tasty homemade pie, cake or slice when you reach the Mirimbah Store at the end of the trail before catching the shuttle bus back up the mountain.

Whatever your rig there is plenty of free camping at the base of Mt Buller at Mirimbah on the right hand side of the road, just before you start climbing the mountain. There’s plenty of shade and a creek and swimming hole to cool off on hot days. Across the road alongside the Delatite River is the day use area with electric BBQs and toilets available. There’s another camp area with toilets at Carters Road, also by the river, back towards Mansfield. Throw a line in and try your luck for a brown trout using flys, live bait (worms are best) or spinning lures.  Dip your feet in the cool water and keep your eyes open for a lyrebird, sit back and relax with the sounds of the forest.

Those with a 4WD can explore larger areas of the Alpine National Park to Howqua Hills, Wonnangatta Valley, Lake Cobbler and Mt Stirling summit. A circumnavigation of Mt Stirling along the 52km Circuit Road can be done in an all-wheel drive vehicle and is a magnificent forest drive. Stop off and visit the infamous Craig’s Hut used in the Man from Snowy River film, or take one of the many bushwalks from Telephone Box Junction. Before heading off into the alpine wilderness, make sure you check on road conditions and access as it does vary throughout the year. Also, grab The Mansfield-Mt Buller High Country Adventure map; it’s the ideal guide for all outdoor activities in the high country region.

Mansfield is the service centre for Mt Buller, and is the perfect place to stock up on supplies before heading into the high country. There are many fine cafes and regular weekend markets selling quality local fresh produce, such as in-season fruit, vegetables and nuts, hand-made cheese, chocolate, chutneys, biscuits and wine. For the cycling enthusiasts, the Mansfield to Tallarook Rail Trail is a must. Passing through picturesque landscapes, towns and villages, the 134 km trail can be done in stages or in totality. Transfers can be arranged for pick up or drop offs along the way.

If you are looking for a cooler destination in the summer and autumn, then it’s hard to go past Victoria’s High Country.  Explore this magnificent alpine landscape on foot, bicycle or 4WD. And don’t forget to enjoy a glass of your favourite refreshment, and immerse yourself 360 degrees into an endless summit sunset. Enjoy being on top of the world!

Facts and figures

It's been a big trip for Delvy this winter. Here are some travel facts and figures.....

Katherine departed Mt Buller 9 May, collected Norma (mum!) from Adelaide Airport 1 June, arrived Coral Bay WA 15 June. Link to map showing route below.

Mt Buller to Coral Bay, via Adelaide.

Total distance travelled: 5873 kilometres
Total diesel burned: 868.657 litres
Total cost of diesel: $1494.04
Highest price paid for diesel: $2.029 cents per litre at Nullarbor Roadhouse, SA
Lowest price paid for diesel: $1.479 cents per litre at Portland, Victoria
Average litres per 100 kilometres: 14.665
Total camping fees: $92

While based at Coral Bay, Katherine and Gary travelled 2951 kilometres visiting the following areas:
·    Exmouth and Cape Range National Park (Norma on this trip)
·    Tom Price and Karijini National Park
·    Carnarvon and Point Quobba blowholes

Katherine and Gary departed Coral Bay 2 September, arrived Airlie Beach (Cannonvale), Whitsundays 17 September. Link to map showing route below:

Coral Bay to Airlie Beach

Total distance travelled: 5988 kilometres
Total diesel burned: 880.62litres
Total cost of diesel: $1582.23
Highest price paid for diesel: $2.099 cents per litre at Barkly Homestead, NT
Lowest price paid for diesel: $1.487 cents per litre at Ayr, Queensland
Average litres per 100 kilometres: 14.867
Total camping fees: $57

Total distance travelled from Mt Buller to Airlie Beach: 14 812 kilometres.
Total number of mechanical issues with Delvy: Nil! She ran like a dream.

Thanks Delvy for an awesome adventure!

Tropical Queensland

You know you are in the tropics of Queensland when the mournful cry of the Bush Stone-Curlew wakes you in the small hours. Each time I woke up, at least I knew what the noise was: those not in the know would think a baby was being tortured. A morning visit to the ablutions block and I was momentarily startled by a plump Green Tree Frog snuggling under the rim of the toilet bowl. Yes, we are definitely in Queensland.

After a leisurely breakfast by the Burdekin River, we ventured into Townsville for the day. Parking near the museum we wandered around the city shopping precinct, noting any changes since our last visit some ten years ago. Apart from the mall now allowing traffic through and a few new buildings, everything is much the same: plenty of boats tied up alongside the river banks, the Sugar Shaker is still standing proud, and Castle Hill dominates the skyline. Some shopping for items that one can only get in a city, then it was time to leave town.

 

Driving south the untamed Bougainvillea screamed with a mixture of vibrant colours: hot pink, post office box red, flame orange. There were hibiscus, frangipanis, enormous old mango trees and fields and fields of sugarcane. Yes, this is the Queensland I remember.

We stopped to buy the cheapest fuel so far ($148.7 cents a litre), some fresh fish from the fish van man and some farm gate vegies and bananas on our way to the Home Hill Comfort Stop. It was hard to get a spot in the long line of caravans and RV's running parallel to the railway line behind the main street. It's not surprising as this free 48 hour rest stop has a camp kitchen with BBQ's, five minute hot showers (they should be three minutes), toilets of course, a fresh water tap and a dump point. And it's all immaculate.

We liked it so much we stayed another night. That meant a whole day without travel. Wow. We have been on the move for two weeks since we left Coral Bay in WA. We started the day with a bike ride around the town, followed by browsing the shops, lunch at one of the grand pubs and book reading in the afternoon. The trains provided the rest area with plenty of atmosphere at all times of the day and night, but that's what freedom camping is all about. It was our last night on the road for awhile so we enjoyed the moment.

 

Onto beautiful Bowen the next morning, a town we have always loved. We checked out all our favourite haunts: a stroll along Queens Beach; a pie at the award winning Jochheim's Bakery; a mango smoothie at Flagstaff Hill admiring the superb views; and, a swim in Horseshoe Bay. A short visit but we'll be back soon as it is only up the road.

Queen's Beach

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, female

Bowen

Horseshoe Bay

 

Now we are in Cannonvale/Airlie Beach for awhile, gateway to the Whitsunday Islands, looking to start another chapter. What that will be is anyone's guess, but I am sure there will still be Delvy adventures of some sort. Stay tuned!

Delvy getting a wash down

  

Whitsunday Islands from Mt Rooper

Outback Queensland

Welcome to Queensland and its graffiti sign: another border crossed and the clocks go forward again. I didn't need to adjust my wristwatch as I hadn't worn it since I left Victoria four months earlier!

First stop in the Sunshine State, Camooweal. Population 300; and they, and more, were all attending a funeral at the community hall in the main street. The majority of the mourners were indigenous, all dressed up in their Sunday best; bright, crisp collared shirts with the men wearing enormous Akubras. Despite the sombre occasion, there were still plenty of smiles and hellos from the locals. The service station was the first we had come across in a few thousand kilometres that employed aboriginal serving staff instead of foreign backpackers. Camooweal is a real Aussie outback town with a strong sense of community.

The flat grasslands of the last 400 kilometres eventually changed to rocky outcrops as we approached Mt Isa, one of the world's richest deposits of copper, silver and zinc and home of the infamous MP Bob Katter. Following a quick look in the information centre and a stock up on beverages, we  made our way to Fountain Springs Rest Area for our first night in Queensland. Pulling up alongside the camper trailer couple, this time we had to make conversation. They had been gold fossicking in the NW and were on the way to find some gems south of Winton before returning to their Hervey Bay home. Everybody is going about their own adventure and has their own story to tell.

After a night spent under the covers, finally due to a cooler evening, we rose early to continue our journey along the Overlander's Way. Passing through Cloncurry, home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, our attention was captured at Julia Creek, specifically 'At the Creek', the multi award winning visitor information centre. Three railway fettler's cottages and the old gaol have been restored to take us on a ecological and cultural journey. The central theme is the Great Artesian Basin and its role in the shire's survival. We wondered were they got their water from! We kept an eye out for the endangered Julia Creek dunnart. This small insect eating marsupial, thought to be extinct until 1992, is found only in the Mitchell grass plains of McKinlay Shire but can be seen at certain times for feeding At the Creek. Unfortunately when we were visiting he was asleep, but there is enough video and information to get the idea.

We decided to stay for lunch while we did the washing at the cute and conveniently located laundromat. The Julia Creek Hotel is the place to go for a counter meal; a recently refurbished grand old building well patronised by the locals enjoying a cold ale after Saturday morning trading, with all the men sitting at the bar and all the ladies in the lounge area. The chicken parmigiama and lamb shanks were not disappointing, and neither was the atmosphere which was devoid of poker machines and various sports blaring from multiple television screens. The way pubs should be I reckon; a place for good old fashioned conversation. There is free camping for self contained vehicles on the eastern edge of town by the water, but we pushed on to dinosaur country.

 Richmond is the home of Australia's premier marine fossil museum, Kronosaurus Korner, built to showcase the 100 million year old vertebrate fossil ‘Richmond plesiosaur', which was found on a nearby property in 1989. Richmond is the geographical centre of where the Cretaceous Inland Sea once was 120 million years ago, and the fossils are prolific. You can even dig for your own at either of the two fossicking sites 12 kilometres north of the town, and don't be surprised if you get lucky.

Our overnight camp at Marathon rest area was the coolest since leaving Tom Price, and the flat landscape made for easy stargazing from the comfort of Delvy's bed.

The Flinders is Queensland's longest river and runs through Hughenden, also on the dinosaur trail. Large sculptures of the prehistoric creatures (and an enormous windmill) are dotted around this town of fine weatherboard buildings.

Continuing east, we had rest stops at Prairie, and old Cobb and Co depot; Torrens Creek, a WWII ammunition supply dump; White Mountains lookout, where we crossed the Great Dividing Range (550 metres); Pentland, home of Men Without a Shed selling fruit and veg, homemade bikkies and chilli sauce, and; Charters Towers, the gold mining town that once hosted its own stock exchange and has numerous heritage listed sites.

 

 

 

Our last night inland was at Macrossan campsite at the foot of the historic Burdekin River Rail Bridge. It was cool enough for Gary to light a campfire, cooking spuds and pumpkin in the hot coals for our dinner. The mighty Burdekin River was named by Ludwig Leichhardt as he undertook one of the country's longest land exploration journeys, travelling from the Darling Downs to Port Essington from 1 October 1844 to 17 December 1845. He was the most authoritative early recorders of Australia’s environment, discovering excellent pastoral country and the best trained natural scientist to explore Australia to that time. It was a pity he vanished without a trace on his next expedition, the first to attempt an east-west crossing.

We have nearly completed our own exploration but from west to east, albeit in far greater style. Although there have been many before us and there will be many more to follow, it's still an adventure. It's also an appreciation of just how big this country really is.

Tomorrow we will smell the sea again.