Mt Buller revisited

Below is an article I wrote last year on Mt Buller, which was published in The Wanderer, the Campervan and Motorhome Club of Australia magazine.

Published April 2013 edition of the ‘The Wanderer’, Caravan and Motorhome Club of Australia magazine.

Summer Alpine Retreat  -  Words & pictures by Katherine Sellers

It’s been a hot and dry summer in North East Victoria, but what better way to escape the heat than to visit the picturesque alpine village of Mt Buller, on the edge of Alpine National Park. At 1600 metres above sea level, it’s at least 10 degrees cooler than the valleys below.  While traditionally a winter skiing playground, Mt Buller is becoming increasingly popular as a summer destination. Visit midweek and you can often have the place to yourself to enjoy the magnificent alpine views and endless sunsets. There’s nothing quite like being on top of the world!

Mt Buller resort village is about a 45 minute drive from the nearest service town of Mansfield, and 3 hours’ drive from Melbourne. It’s located 16 km uphill from the locality of Mirimbah at the base, and is a steep and winding drive on a well maintained, smooth bitumen road. Once you reach the top, turn left at the clock tower and drive up and around to a large flat parking area.  This is Cow Camp (where they used to bring the cattle for summer grazing in the 1930s) and is a good base to explore the village.

Outside the winter months, Mt Buller is quiet and sleepy but has a small supermarket, post office, and a handful of dining and accommodation options. On weekends the place livens up a little with keen road and mountain bikers, runners and a smattering of bushwalkers. For information on what’s happening and what to do on the mountain, visit reception at the Alpine Central building. For the history buffs, the National Alpine Museum is located on Level 1 and houses Australia's largest collection of skiing and alpine memorabilia, featuring a variety of old photographs and film, books, snowmobiles, skis, boots and clothing. It also details Mt Buller’s journey from a cattleman’s run to Australia’s premier alpine resort.

For those who like the great outdoors, there’s a lot to see and do in the High Country over summer and autumn. The inaugural biennial Mt Buller Sculpture Award has just been created for Australia’s first ever mountain-top Sculpture Park. From now until the end of April, twenty two outdoor sculptures are on display within the resort village and surrounds. The winning work of art will be exhibited in perpetuity amongst alpine wild flowers in summer and the majestic snow covered ranges in winter.

After strolling around the village square, take the two hour Summit Nature Walk from the clock tower to Mt Buller summit at 1805 metres; or you can drive to the summit car park just below the peak if you’re not feeling too energetic. The breathtaking views across the Alpine National Park provide a fitting backdrop for the sculptures, along with the varied and colourful wild flowers and grasses and the twisted branches of the snow gums.  On a clear day you can see many of the Alpine peaks: in the east Mt Bogong (at 1986 metres is Victoria’s highest) and Mt Feathertop; Mt Buffalo in the north; and Mt McDonald in the south. You can also catch a glimpse of Lake Eildon’s 515km shoreline in the west.

There is plenty of wildlife to observe along the way; currawongs and ravens are constant companions, but keep an eye out for the yellow tailed black cockatoos and gang gangs feeding off the snow gum nuts. Of course snakes are about too, so watch your step! If you venture out at night, you may be lucky and spot a wombat on the trails, or a mountain pygmy possum feeding on the countless Bogong Moths that migrate to enjoy a cooler summer.

For the avid bushwalker, the five hour return walk from Mt Buller to Mt Stirling (1749m) also rewards you with commanding views of the untouched mountain forest, and a grand perspective of Mt Buller. There are a few steep uphill (then downhill!) sections but Howqua Gap Hut is a comfortable place for a rest each way. To shorten the walk, you can take the 4WD from Mt Buller to Howqua Gap along the Corn Hill Road track for about 5km, and walk up to Mt Sterling from there.

There’s an easier three hour downhill walk from the resort village to Mirimbah, where you are surrounded by huge Alpine Ash and tree-ferns, and make multiple foot bridge crossings of the Delatite River. This trail is a highlight of the area and well recommended. Alternatively, for an adrenalin rush you can ride the 10km Delatite River Trail on a mountain bike: bring your own or hire one for the day. Reward yourself with a great coffee and a tasty homemade pie, cake or slice when you reach the Mirimbah Store at the end of the trail before catching the shuttle bus back up the mountain.

Whatever your rig there is plenty of free camping at the base of Mt Buller at Mirimbah on the right hand side of the road, just before you start climbing the mountain. There’s plenty of shade and a creek and swimming hole to cool off on hot days. Across the road alongside the Delatite River is the day use area with electric BBQs and toilets available. There’s another camp area with toilets at Carters Road, also by the river, back towards Mansfield. Throw a line in and try your luck for a brown trout using flys, live bait (worms are best) or spinning lures.  Dip your feet in the cool water and keep your eyes open for a lyrebird, sit back and relax with the sounds of the forest.

Those with a 4WD can explore larger areas of the Alpine National Park to Howqua Hills, Wonnangatta Valley, Lake Cobbler and Mt Stirling summit. A circumnavigation of Mt Stirling along the 52km Circuit Road can be done in an all-wheel drive vehicle and is a magnificent forest drive. Stop off and visit the infamous Craig’s Hut used in the Man from Snowy River film, or take one of the many bushwalks from Telephone Box Junction. Before heading off into the alpine wilderness, make sure you check on road conditions and access as it does vary throughout the year. Also, grab The Mansfield-Mt Buller High Country Adventure map; it’s the ideal guide for all outdoor activities in the high country region.

Mansfield is the service centre for Mt Buller, and is the perfect place to stock up on supplies before heading into the high country. There are many fine cafes and regular weekend markets selling quality local fresh produce, such as in-season fruit, vegetables and nuts, hand-made cheese, chocolate, chutneys, biscuits and wine. For the cycling enthusiasts, the Mansfield to Tallarook Rail Trail is a must. Passing through picturesque landscapes, towns and villages, the 134 km trail can be done in stages or in totality. Transfers can be arranged for pick up or drop offs along the way.

If you are looking for a cooler destination in the summer and autumn, then it’s hard to go past Victoria’s High Country.  Explore this magnificent alpine landscape on foot, bicycle or 4WD. And don’t forget to enjoy a glass of your favourite refreshment, and immerse yourself 360 degrees into an endless summit sunset. Enjoy being on top of the world!