Living in the Whitsundays - Proserpine

The Whitsundays is well known for its 74 Island Wonders in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. It truly is stunning, but there are some other scenic areas that don't make it in the brochure. First, the town of Proserpine.

The sugar cane and grazing town of Proserpine is a 10 minute drive to the south of us, with the airport a further 15 minutes’ further on towards the city of Mackay. 

Proserpine from Tawvale Heights

Proserpine, named by the explorer George Dalrymple after Persephone, the Greek goddess of spring growth, has a population of about 3300 people. It has all the facilities one would expect in a small country town, but of particular interest to me is the library, entertainment centre, 50 metre swimming pool, museum, sewing store, tennis courts, op shops, supermarket and post office. The town is just the right size and busyness to usually get a parking spot right out the front of the required service, or to amble down one side of the two block Main Street and back up the other.

Main Street, Proserpine early weekday morning

Cafe 22 is well worth deviating off the Bruce Highway for its great coffee, excellent wholesome food and friendly, efficient service. The artworks out the back and Colour Me Crazy around the corner are also worthy of some attention.

Colour Me Crazy lives up to its name

Proserpine is a mill town, and first began crushing sugar cane as a cooperative in 1897, producing 11 000 tonnes. Now owned by a Singaporean company, the mill crushes over 2 million tonnes annually. 

Sugarcane takes 12-16 months to mature, reaching up to 4 metres in height, and is ready for harvesting between June and December when rainfall is less frequent and the plant's sugar content is at its highest. The mill operates 24/7 during this time, and Proserpine bustles to life.

The 62 metre tall mill chimneys at full steam. Wiley's Jeep in Foreground.

Traditionally, the cane has been burnt before harvesting to remove leaves, weeds and other trash which impede harvesting and milling. Some farmers still burn off, which makes a spectacular sight in the early evening as the 6 metre flames race through the cane: it's all over in a matter of minutes. However, it is now common for the sugarcane to be harvested green rather than burnt. Green harvesting recycles nitrogen in the plant by leaving trash cuttings from harvesting in the field.

Cane replanted after harvesting - January

The volunteer-run Proserpine Museum tells the story of sugar cane, from its hand cutting beginnings through to the evolution of the harvesters, as well as the life of well known Proserpinian Sydney Cotton, the local invention of the Glass Louvre Window System, and the nearby Australian Field Experiment Station of WWII. 

Located 26 kilometres inland from Proserpine on the Proserpine River is Peter Faust Dam, or Lake Proserpine, constructed for irrigation in the dry season, flood mitigation in the wet season, and a water supply to the town. Anticipated to take 10 years to fill, it reached 98% capacity in the big wet of 1991; just a couple of months after completion in December 1990. It's a well known fishing area and The Fish Stocking Association ensures that Barramundi and Sooty Grunter are plentiful for the local and visiting anglers.

Proserpine Dam 

Proserpine has a humid subtropical climate that consists of two main seasons: the wet (November to April) and the dry (May to November). The average rainfall in the wet is 1400mm, which transforms the countryside from a dry dust bowl to a lush green carpet. The best time to visit is during the dry, as it is cool and pleasant with scarce rainfall and low humidity. The peak season for tourism is during the winter months owing to the reliable extended runs of clear weather which are ideal for outdoor activities. 

Surrounding countryside in September