Adventures of Delvy : Road trip Tropical North Queensland - Part 2 - Innisfail, Atherton Tablelands, Kurrimine Beach

At sunrise the next morning we were up in the air as there was a small break in the weather. What a joy it is to be like a bird and look down at the patchwork quilt landscape of rich red earth and bright green plantations of bananas, papaya and sugarcane. The mangrove lined river snakes its way to the Coral Sea, and the enormous art deco buildings of Innisfail are distinctive in the near distance.

Getting ready to fly the gyroplane at Innisfail Aerodrome

When the weather closed in, with touring map in hand we headed for the lower Atherton Tablelands along Palmerston Highway for a bit of a drive. Whilst the visibility was poor for views of the district, the waterfalls were in fine form. First things first though; morning tea at Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy and Organic Cafe after our early start to the day. The scones were the best I have eaten - light and fluffy - and made all the more yummy with homemade butter and strawberry jam.

Making cheese at Mungalli Creek Dairy

Feeling recharged, we drove along the 15 kilometre waterfall circuit just up the road. After slathering ourselves with Bushman’s insect repellent, it was a rewarding short walk to the base of Ellinjaa Falls, whereas the Zillie Falls further up the road was viewed from above. The picturesque Milla Milla Falls is the most popular and perfect for a refreshing swim. Depending on how much water is flowing over the top, it’s possible to duck under the falls and sit in behind the curtain of water. It’s a most beautiful sight looking up underneath the falling water – the droplets are like stars raining down over the vertical carpet of ferns.

Ellinjaa Falls

Zillie Falls

Milla Milla Falls

Returning back down the tableland to Innisfail aerodrome it miraculously stopped raining for us to get an afternoon fly before heading to the Mena Creek Hotel for dinner.

The next day after another early morning fly, we headed for Kurrimine Beach, which according to the brochure is “a beachside haven where The Great Barrier Reef nearly touches the coastline”. Guided reef walks to nearby King Reef operate throughout the winter months, and if you have your own boat the Barnard Island Group and the dense rainforest of Dunk Island are only kilometres from shore.

Kurrimine Beach

Not a lot happens during the wet season - the place was like a ghost town whilst we were there – so we enjoyed a stroll alone along the lengthy beach. It coincided with the first time it had stopped raining since we arrived in the wet tropics.

Heading back out to the Bruce Highway we passed Murdering Point Winery but it was a little early in the day for us to taste the red and white tropical fruit wine on offer. The name is a point of interest though: the survivors from an 1878 shipwreck on Kurrimine Beach were not so lucky after all, having been murdered and eaten by local aborigines once they made it ashore.

We continued our day of sightseeing to Coquette Point for a view of where the South and North Johnstone Rivers converge. Once again the view was diminished due to the rain and associated cloud but we still enjoyed a cup of tea from the thermos whilst watching the rain fall on the windscreen of the Subaru.

Rain, rain, rain on the South Johnstone River

We headed back into Innisfail and crossed the river for a drive north to Flying Fish Point and a dirt road to the secluded and peaceful beach of Ella Bay. We passed a prawn farm along the way and at the end of the public road is a cassowary sanctuary on the former cattle property, which backs on to national park and the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. However, that is all about to change according to some locals we were chatting to that night, as a three-stage resort and residential development has been approved for the area. I wonder where the cassowaries will go then – their habitat continues to diminish putting their future at stake.