Whitsunday sailing

At last, a four day break in the 'park', as locals like to call it. Not just any old park - it's the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in the Whitsundays, Queensland. 

Sailing, snorkelling, fishing and relaxing with a good book were the primary activities, as well as plenty of time to just soak up the views.

Departing from Shute Harbour, thanks to Sunsail, we hoisted the main and head sail of Ali Cat, a Leopard 444 catamaran, and let the wind decide where we would anchor for the night. At this time of year though the winds are a little fickle but there was just enough north easterly to get us into Cid Harbour for the evening. 

Ali Cat

While I had the luxury of an experienced local skipper (my husband) to navigate these waters and provide the commentary, I absorbed myself in the pages of 100 Magic Miles to bring myself up to speed. Now in its 11^th edition, David and Carolyn Colfelt’s guide provides exhaustive and reliable detail about every nook and cranny of the Whitsundays. Contrary to popular belief, the enormous all-weather anchorage of Cid Harbour was not used as a marshalling point for the US Fleet prior to WWII’s Battle of the Coral Sea, but was used occasionally as anchorage for the Australian and Allied navies. 

Sunset at Cid Harbour

For spectacular views of the Whitsunday Islands, our younger, accompanying Italian friends, Ale & G, donned backpacks for the challenging three hour return hike from Sawmill Beach on Whitsunday Island to Whitsunday Peak (437m). Due to my inappropriate footwear and the heat, I opted for the easy one way one kilometre stroll through the dry vine forest; complete with massive hoop pines, to the stunning Dugong Beach, where my dinghy pick up was waiting to transport me to the first snorkel site of the trip.

Looking fabulous in my bright blue stinger suit, I grabbed my mask, snorkel and fins and plunged from the dinghy into the flooding tide between Ross Islet and Cid Island. Pretty soft corals and numerous fish rushed by as the current spat me out onto the sand spit at the southern end of the islet.

With the morning’s activities complete we weighed anchor and tracked south to navigate our way to Gulnare Inlet for some exploring. Whilst we didn’t need to visit such a well-protected anchorage in this sublime weather, it was a chance for me to take the wheel and practice some Coxswain skills. There is reef all around and a back bearing is required to safely enter the inlet to avoid going aground. I was glad I was under the tuition of an experienced teacher! 

View of Henning Island from Gulnare Inlet 

As we were still on a rising tide, as soon as we dropped anchor we were off exploring the mangrove-lined estuary and creeks. We tried to find the old tramway that was built to move timber from the surrounding hills in the early 1900’s, but the growth was too thick and the tide was turning against us. We did however find someone’s doomsday stash of diesel fuel and other survival equipment, hidden under camouflaged netting along a well-trodden track rising up from a natural stone landing.

As the afternoon sun reached intensity it was time for a siesta in air-conditioned luxury. With three private cabins, a large saloon area, and shaded forward and aft decks, there was no shortage of places for four people to chill out. 

Ghigo & Alessandra

On sunset, Gary took to the dinghy for a spot of fishing in amongst the mangroves while G and I calculated the depth and time of tide required to exit the inlet on the rising tide the next day using the rule of twelfths. Somehow I don’t think the glass of wine helped with the speed of calculation but eventually we ascertained that we could depart at 10.00am, therefore we could all have a much needed sleep in.

The silence was ominous overnight. – not even the sound of water lapping on the hulls could be heard. Such stillness is rare on a boat.

After completing a few jobs on the vessel and checking for any maintenance issues, we departed Gulnare and tried for a snorkel off Henning Island. The north wind and strong current made it not ideal, so we sailed north along Whitsunday Passage to Homestead Bay on the eastern side of Cid Island. The current was pretty strong but there were some interesting coral formations and a few fish to look at. 

Navigating out of Gulnare Inlet

Our next destination was Hook Passage and the drop off point for the Whitsunday Cairn trail. G was keen for another challenging bushwalk up 386 metres, which only took him less than two hours return – well under the suggested four hours. While he was sweating it out, the rest of us went exploring in the dinghy. I envied the Hook Island Wilderness Resort opposite, now closed. What I could do with that to bring it back to life! If only I had an endless supply of money. The Hook Underwater Observatory still stands looking quite dilapidated, but it was once the showcase of the Whitsunday Islands when it was opened in 1969 after three years of construction. Ray Blackwood’s Whitsunday Islands: an historical dictionary has all the details, including the interesting fact that two hundred old car bodies were dumped at the base of the structure to provide a habitat for fish and coral. There were no decommissioned navy ships available back then!

Time for a snorkel, and although the tide was still too high the reef area between Scrub Hen Beach and Hook Passage was extensive with a fabulous variety of coral and fish plus a few turtles. Gary cast the fishing rod line a few times and surprisingly hooked a coral trout. Unfortunately it slipped off the hook and slid in under the floor of the dinghy into the hull. It took some time to get it out by raising one end from the davit, but eventually it plopped out and swam away. It was undersized anyway.

Gary the dinghy man, Hook Passage

It was time to head for our overnight anchorage at Macona Inlet, chosen to meet up with a friend who was skippering a group of Venezuelans for a week. As we slowly motored towards the far end of the inlet a baby hammerhead shark swam up to the starboard hull. These still and shallow waters provide a perfect breeding ground for hammerheads so enter if you dare.

Orca at Macona Inlet

Our last day and we saved the best snorkel spot till last – Ravens Cove, the southern end near Turtle Head Rock. The tide was low (the best time to snorkel), visibility was about 10 metres, and the coral was stunning. So many hard and soft varieties, and the fish life was abundant both small and large. I even saw an albino bat fish. After two hours in the water it was time to head back to Shute Harbour, via Unsafe Passage through the Molle Island group. 

Ravens Cove snorkeling site

Through Unsafe Passage between Mid and North Molle Island

There are so many wonderful places to visit in the Whitsunday Island group that doesn’t have to include the place everyone goes to, Whitehaven Beach. Can’t wait for the next trip! 

Chart AUS252 - Whitsunday Group. Don't sail with out it!

Sailing the Whitsundays

Every now and then I get to accompany my husband when he's working. That probably doesn't sound very exciting, but when his job is to sometimes deliver sailing boats to and from Hamilton Island and Shute Harbour or Airlie Beach then it's a different story.

Lazy sail back to Shute Harbour

Sailing around the beautiful Whitsunday Islands in Queensland is arguably one of the most scenic and best cruising grounds in the world. Ask anybody who's done it, in particular those that have sailed here and have never left!

While you can enjoy overnight tours that are fully crewed and will take you to all the top spots, you can actually charter a vessel yourself, with no prior experience. It's called a bareboat charter and there are various types and sizes of vessels to choose from, which can be hired from 5 nights or more from a variety of bareboat charter companies in the Whitsundays. To skipper yourself, and your family or friends, is the perfect way to independently explore the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

Sailing the Whitsundays

Once you have made your bareboat booking, you can either organise your own provisions or get someone else to do it. It's often easier to have it all organised before you arrive so that you can maximise your time out on the water.  Before setting off you though, you are given a briefing on the operation of the vessel, including sail instruction if your boat has sails, and where you can go and what you can do in the marine park. This usually takes about 4 hours; less if you have had previous boating experience. Once the bareboat briefer has signed you off then you are free to discover the jewels of the Whitsunday Islands, including the famous Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island.

Anchorage at Betty's, near Whitehaven Beach

Sail, snorkel, swim to your heart's content. Visit deserted beaches or island resorts. Take a bushwalk or try and catch a fish. Anchor in a secluded bay and soak up the stunning sunset.  The choice is yours.

Sailing across Whitsunday Passage in 15-20 knots of breeze

Hamilton Island Marina

Twice each day, morning and afternoon, you are required to radio the bareboat charter company of your daily plans and overnight anchorage. This is so the company knows of your whereabouts and can easily organise assistance if you need it. At the end of your amazing charter, you are debriefed by a company representative to ensure all went well.

This is where my husband comes in, as he briefs and debriefs bareboat charters and delivers vessels to where they need to be. Lucky for me sometimes as I get to come along for the ride.

Departing Shute Harbour for Hamilton Island

Those that experience cruising the Whitsunday Islands say that it's the best holiday they have ever done, and usually come back for more. So, what are you waiting for? Book now for a holiday of a lifetime.

Sunrise at Shute Harbour