Whitsundays to Sunshine Coast by rail

With our motorhome stuck in NSW, I thought I would try a different kind of adventure on a different type of transport, just for a change. After working 12-hour days for 31 days straight in Bowen, I was looking forward to a long sit down. Gazing out the big windows of the Spirit of Queensland as it trundled down the east coast tracks sounded like an ideal way to wind down. It turned out I got a lot longer sit down than anticipated.

Hot and sunny in the Whitsundays - time to head south for the summer

I was armed with plenty of reading and audio book material to keep me occupied. I couldn’t wait to just sit with my headphones on and watch the world go by. I opted for a reclining seat for the 12-hour journey: I’m used to sitting on a hard bench whilst keeping watch on yacht deliveries, so a soft chair sounded delightful. It didn’t disappoint. The seating area was very comfortable, with the windows and amenities sparkling clean. I thoroughly enjoyed my ‘berth’, once I finally got on board.

Plenty of room to stretch the legs

On my day of departure, Queensland Rail (QR) texted with an updated departure time of 8.30pm, two hours later than scheduled. Also, the train was now to be a bus to Rockhampton due to “weather”. Once I arrived at Proserpine Station, I was informed that the bus-train was running another hour or so late as the coach passengers had not yet been served their complimentary dinner at the allocated dinner stop. Luckily my friend kept me company and we enjoyed some sultry evening stargazing until the coach arrived just before 10.00pm.

Waiting for the bus-train to arrive at Proserpine Station

With bags packed away underneath and repeated apologies for the “delayed service”, I finally departed the Whitsundays. The coach captain drove us smoothly down the Bruce Highway in mostly inclement conditions. The one and only comfort stop was halfway at the one-horse town of Carmilla. We’ve pulled in here in Delvy several times over the years as the fuel price is usually quite competitive. There wasn’t much going on at midnight though, except for a queue to the ladies’ toilet.

Midight comfort stop

Several rain showers later and a pick up at St Lawrence, all was quiet as we cruised into the outskirts of Rockhampton around 3.15am. Suddenly, jolting us out of slumber was a full volume blast of The Smashing Pumpkins, Bullet with Butterfly Wings: a wake-up call with a difference. It took me a minute or so to realise that it was the sound of the radio coming through the coach speakers, and not someone’s ringtone, and that we were unlucky to not get a tune easier on the ear.

As we pulled up at Rockhampton Station, the instructions given by the QR staff member were misleading as the train waiting on the platform wasn’t ours as suggested. Confusion reigned amongst the sleep deprived: some people had been travelling for well over 12 hours by now. We helped ourselves to complimentary tea and coffee, munched on a Scotch Finger biscuit while we shuffled around under fluorescent brightness waiting (again) for our delayed train.

At last, we get to board the train after some 460km by bus 

An indistinguishable announcement came over the loud speaker as the Spirit of Queensland slid alongside Platform 1 and the doors swooshed open. As we stowed luggage and took to our reserved seats, hearing aids weren’t required as a staff member loudly announced the destination of each ticket holder. No prizes for guessing who the main demographic is on long distance rail. Once we were settled, all lights went out to provide an opportunity for a snooze and to, at last, relax into the rail journey. But not for long. Discordant telephone conversations, long-winded prayer recitals, and forced listening of Australia’s Funniest Home Videos soon put a stop to that. Hardly conducive to QR’s suggestion of being able to “unwind and relax”, even with headphones on. Thankfully the train had more carriages with lots of empty seats (I wonder why that was?) so me and my pillow moved. 

I started to pine for Delvy when the train came to a complete stop in the middle of nowhere. Oh, the joys of one’s own transport as you don’t have to tolerate other people and their annoyingness. We sat stock still for over an hour with no explanation as to why, but when we finally overtook a coal train once the single track branched into two, I guessed there was a breakdown. I also guessed our arrival time will be delayed even further. Five hours overdue now.

Central Queensland scenery

Plenty to look at from the big windows 

Coincidentally, I have been in this house - a very tastefully renovated AirBnB

With a lengthy delay, the train took 4 hours to travel from Rockhampton to Gladstone.

Thankfully, once through Gladstone, the train at last found some rhythm and continued south in a business-like fashion. Given that I was meant to be disembarking in Nambour at 7.00am, I was feeling a little peckish by 9.00 am, with still three hours to go; unless there were more holdups. It was time to visit the dining carriage.

The aroma of toast (where’s the bacon?) wafted over as I waited for one of four ladies chatting in the back of the galley to serve me. One young lady was busy making sandwiches and it turned out I had to wait 10 minutes for her to finish as the others were obviously very busy. She was helpful in advising what toasted and fried snacks were available (no bacon!). Her enthusiasm for the job took me by surprise, but then she confessed that this was her first trip. I hope indifference doesn’t set in too soon, I thought cynically.

As I was chatting, the other ladies approached to find out what was going on, and then started apologising for the delay, again, and advised that complimentary lunch vouchers would be issued at noon. Damn. I kept missing out on the free meals as I was not travelling all the way to Brisbane and had boarded well below Cairns. I advised that I would be disembarking at noon (fingers crossed), and perhaps they could shout me the dry, white toasted sandwich I just ordered, along with something to wash it down, to make up for the inconvenience. They folded like a house of cards and threw in a small piece of fruitcake as an extra. Lucky me!

My complimentary toasted sandwich

Marvellous river crossing

Rain, rain, rain. Didn't detract from the scenery though.

Returning to a seat, it was an uneventful run to the finish line, save for several intense rain showers. With husband tracking me on Google maps he was on the platform when the train finally arrived, five hours later than scheduled. Oh well, better late than never, and the bonus was I got to see a lot more of the countryside due to the extra travel during daylight hours.

The creeks are big up this way. Lots of birds too.

Lovely and green in south east Queensland.

I love train travel, and have used this transport mode in many different countries. It’s a great way to view the scenery in comfort with no responsibility. There’s plenty of room to move around, luggage allowance is flexible, and it’s not usually crowded like coaches and airplanes. I travelled north on the Spirit of Queensland a couple of years ago, that time splurging on a sleeper. Again, while the berth was comfortable and amenities well-tended, the food, customer service and behaviour of fellow passengers was average at best, so not much has changed. It could be so much better.

Some staff training, along with infrastructure upgrades, would be helpful in providing “consistent, world-class service to (our) customers”. Would I use QR again? Maybe, but I wouldn't hold any expectations. I'd like to actually travel by rail the whole journey, and not by bus as I can do that anytime! I'd probably pack my own meals too, and have a few spare earphones to hand out to fellow passengers. Hmmm, on second thoughts…

Grey skies of the Sunshine Coast