Outback Queensland

Welcome to Queensland and its graffiti sign: another border crossed and the clocks go forward again. I didn't need to adjust my wristwatch as I hadn't worn it since I left Victoria four months earlier!

First stop in the Sunshine State, Camooweal. Population 300; and they, and more, were all attending a funeral at the community hall in the main street. The majority of the mourners were indigenous, all dressed up in their Sunday best; bright, crisp collared shirts with the men wearing enormous Akubras. Despite the sombre occasion, there were still plenty of smiles and hellos from the locals. The service station was the first we had come across in a few thousand kilometres that employed aboriginal serving staff instead of foreign backpackers. Camooweal is a real Aussie outback town with a strong sense of community.

The flat grasslands of the last 400 kilometres eventually changed to rocky outcrops as we approached Mt Isa, one of the world's richest deposits of copper, silver and zinc and home of the infamous MP Bob Katter. Following a quick look in the information centre and a stock up on beverages, we  made our way to Fountain Springs Rest Area for our first night in Queensland. Pulling up alongside the camper trailer couple, this time we had to make conversation. They had been gold fossicking in the NW and were on the way to find some gems south of Winton before returning to their Hervey Bay home. Everybody is going about their own adventure and has their own story to tell.

After a night spent under the covers, finally due to a cooler evening, we rose early to continue our journey along the Overlander's Way. Passing through Cloncurry, home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, our attention was captured at Julia Creek, specifically 'At the Creek', the multi award winning visitor information centre. Three railway fettler's cottages and the old gaol have been restored to take us on a ecological and cultural journey. The central theme is the Great Artesian Basin and its role in the shire's survival. We wondered were they got their water from! We kept an eye out for the endangered Julia Creek dunnart. This small insect eating marsupial, thought to be extinct until 1992, is found only in the Mitchell grass plains of McKinlay Shire but can be seen at certain times for feeding At the Creek. Unfortunately when we were visiting he was asleep, but there is enough video and information to get the idea.

We decided to stay for lunch while we did the washing at the cute and conveniently located laundromat. The Julia Creek Hotel is the place to go for a counter meal; a recently refurbished grand old building well patronised by the locals enjoying a cold ale after Saturday morning trading, with all the men sitting at the bar and all the ladies in the lounge area. The chicken parmigiama and lamb shanks were not disappointing, and neither was the atmosphere which was devoid of poker machines and various sports blaring from multiple television screens. The way pubs should be I reckon; a place for good old fashioned conversation. There is free camping for self contained vehicles on the eastern edge of town by the water, but we pushed on to dinosaur country.

 Richmond is the home of Australia's premier marine fossil museum, Kronosaurus Korner, built to showcase the 100 million year old vertebrate fossil ‘Richmond plesiosaur', which was found on a nearby property in 1989. Richmond is the geographical centre of where the Cretaceous Inland Sea once was 120 million years ago, and the fossils are prolific. You can even dig for your own at either of the two fossicking sites 12 kilometres north of the town, and don't be surprised if you get lucky.

Our overnight camp at Marathon rest area was the coolest since leaving Tom Price, and the flat landscape made for easy stargazing from the comfort of Delvy's bed.

The Flinders is Queensland's longest river and runs through Hughenden, also on the dinosaur trail. Large sculptures of the prehistoric creatures (and an enormous windmill) are dotted around this town of fine weatherboard buildings.

Continuing east, we had rest stops at Prairie, and old Cobb and Co depot; Torrens Creek, a WWII ammunition supply dump; White Mountains lookout, where we crossed the Great Dividing Range (550 metres); Pentland, home of Men Without a Shed selling fruit and veg, homemade bikkies and chilli sauce, and; Charters Towers, the gold mining town that once hosted its own stock exchange and has numerous heritage listed sites.

 

 

 

Our last night inland was at Macrossan campsite at the foot of the historic Burdekin River Rail Bridge. It was cool enough for Gary to light a campfire, cooking spuds and pumpkin in the hot coals for our dinner. The mighty Burdekin River was named by Ludwig Leichhardt as he undertook one of the country's longest land exploration journeys, travelling from the Darling Downs to Port Essington from 1 October 1844 to 17 December 1845. He was the most authoritative early recorders of Australia’s environment, discovering excellent pastoral country and the best trained natural scientist to explore Australia to that time. It was a pity he vanished without a trace on his next expedition, the first to attempt an east-west crossing.

We have nearly completed our own exploration but from west to east, albeit in far greater style. Although there have been many before us and there will be many more to follow, it's still an adventure. It's also an appreciation of just how big this country really is.

Tomorrow we will smell the sea again.

The Territory

This is the third night we have camped alongside the same white Toyota Prado towing a camper trailer with Queensland number plates. They are putting in 500 kilometre days too, and, like us, wanting to get out of the heat of the Northern Territory. It's hot, dry and dusty with little to look at when driving. The fashion parade of summer attired termite mounds along the Stuart Highway creates some distraction, but it doesn't last long. This is a big, big country.

After our Lake Argyle excursion we crossed into NT with no fanfare, stopping at Timber Creek (along with every other road user!) for fuel, surprised at the 10 cent price difference between the two service stations right next door to each other. Timber Creek is the gateway to the Gregory National Park with spectacular range and gorge scenery. However, a 4WD is necessary to access all areas and at this time of year the heat chases you back into the air conditioning. We took a very short detour to take a look at the old Victoria River Crossing thinking we could walk down to the river, but it was at least 40 degrees Celsius so we abandoned the idea. Instead we drove slowly over the main bridge near the roadhouse to get a view.

Onward we drove and our first encounter with the camper trailer couple was at King River West rest area, 30 SW of Katherine. No water in this river; just a sand bed waiting for the wet season rains to come. We watched as more and more travellers piled into the small site, skirting around the enormous Winnebago complete with trailer, who I overheard, was from Bathurst. There's not a lot of chatter at these campsites: we are all too hot and bothered by the soaring temperatures, lack of breeze and hundreds of flies and other annoying insects. Once the sun goes down we have to sit in the dark otherwise we will be eaten alive by insects, and the blanket of bushfire smoke just adds to the whole effect.

It's early to bed and early to rise but at least I'm not waking at 5.00am now, as the clocks are forward an hour and a half in the NT and dawn is now around 6.30am. We got into the town of my namesake quite early, purchasing a 12 volt fan to create a little breeze in Delvy. It's been many years since we have had a hot sleepless night so we needed to find some relief, besides hightailing south as quickly as possible. Katherine is a friendly and attractive town; bigger than I thought. As we are on a bit of a mission to get to the East Coast, we didn't stop to look at the nearby national park and the gorge river cruise. We'll just have to return in the more cooler months so we can enjoy the various bushwalks as well.

Turning south we cooled off in the spring-fed mineral rich thermal waters of Bitter Springs at Mataranka, then stopped for a cold one at the Daly Waters pub just for something to do. It is quite kitsch really, bursting at the seams with assorted collections of trivia: bras, business cards, name badges, footy shirts, stickers, notes of currency, thongs....the list goes on. However, this area does have the distinction of having Australia's first international airfield so it does have a bit of kudos. Qantas used Daly Waters as a refuelling point for flights to Singapore, and the pub was built to quench the thirst of its passengers.

At our overnight stop at Newcastle Waters (no water here either) with 16 other travellers and their particular vehicles all lined up in a row, we acquired a hitchhiker overnight. The largest and most colourful stick insect we have ever seen was sitting on Delvy's rear wheel. Gary showed it around the campsite while I cycled the 23 kilometres into the township of Elliott. It was flat all the way and I had to pedal all the way.

Continuing on, fuel stops were at The Three Ways (where the roadhouse attendant accused me of taking unleaded petrol - not sure where she was going with that one!), and then at Barkly Homestead where we paid the highest price per litre of diesel yet: $2.09. Whoa! A sign explained the high price is due to the isolation and that they use a diesel generator to exist. Oh well, as if there is any choice in the matter: we had to fill or we wouldn't make it across the border.

Our final night in the NT was spent at Wonarah Bore campsite; we waved to our camper trailer couple (left of photo) as we drove in.

Compared to WA, the overnight camping facilities are a step down. Often there are no toilets; if there are then they are rather filthy and always lacking toilet paper. Subsequently there are frequent streams of toilet paper flapping about in the spinifex: not a good look. There are no dump points either. Mobile phone and internet service is also lacking in between large towns (and it's a long long way between them too!), hence the delay in this post. In the north west we had service all the way from Broome to Kununurra: perhaps that's due to the mines and their demands to be connected. Anyway, it is what it is.

Queensland tomorrow.


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Mirima National Park and Lake Argyle

An early rise again, but an early start to Kununurra and Mirima (Hidden Valley) National Park for a bushwalk before the mercury rises to over 35 degrees Celsius. Known as the mini Bungle Bungles, this spectacular small park is located adjacent to the town and well worth the visit. We already had a WA Parks pass so didn't need to pay the $12 entry fee, however, we wouldn't have complained if we had to pay again. The rock formations are magnificent, and the walking trails are dotted with information of the flora and fauna and its bush uses. I couldn't take enough photos  (and even Gary took a few) as we walked all the trails in under an hour. This park is a must see.

Refreshed by a tasty mango smoothie under the mango trees at Ivanhoe Café, we departed the leafy town of Kununurra for Lake Argyle. Australia's largest body of freshwater was formed by damming the Ord River in 1971, and is classed as an inland sea covering over 1000 square kilometres. This magnificent lake acts as a reservoir for the Kununurra irrigation scheme; watering fruit and vegetables in half of the allotted 15 000 hectares, and Indian Sandalwood in the other. At a return of $100 000 a tonne the trees are a profitable investment.

 

We parked on an unpowered site at the Lake Argyle Resort and Caravan Park for the night; complete with wet edge pool with water views, and booked the sunset cruise on the bright orange Kimberley Durack. An informative guide (a kiwi too!) pointed out the wildlife, including a couple of the 10 000 freshwater crocodiles that inhabit the lake. A sunset swim washed away the heat of the day, so too did a cold beverage or two. This three hour cruise was great value for money.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rising early again after a hot restless sleep, I convinced Gary into a bike ride along the dam wall and down the river’s edge, a 160 metre descent then return climb. He took on the challenge and earnt himself bacon and egg breakfast before we hit the road for the Northern Territory.

Broome to Victoria Highway Junction

It’s hot, dry and dusty and I am feeling as parched as the land. Thank goodness for air conditioning; one of the world’s greatest inventions, along with power steering. The vast plain of the Western Kimberley, dotted with varying earth coloured termite nests and patches of scorched earth, stretches on forever. Shade is a rarity so to pull over and stop for too long is unbearable. And it’s not even summer yet.

We diverted to Geikie Gorge National Park, via Fitzroy Crossing, for a change of scenery. Unfortunately we missed the boat river cruise but we did catch the golden afternoon light on the gorge.

It was a still, warm night at the Ngumban Cliff Lookout campsite, and whilst weary from another 500 kilometre driving day it took awhile for sleep to come. A gentle breeze finally ruffled the curtains and caressed my face: for a brief moment I thought I was on Shore Thing again. A pity, as I think I prefer the cool blue water to the hot red desert, spectacular as it is. 

Awake at first light, which is at about 5.00am, we had an early start for Ground Hog Day. We refreshed with a cuppa at Mary River, and then a talking book kept us company until we arrived in Halls Creek. Finding the only shade in town, just as a fellow traveller conveniently pulled out, we enquired about scenic flights over the Bungle Bungles at the beautifully presented visitor information centre. Not getting much change out of $800, we opted to think about it as we pressed on and for a bite of lunch at Turkey Creek. The scenery became more visually appealing more regularly as we crossed into the Eastern Kimberley, with various ranges dominating the horizon. Yellow and black signs began to appear, warning us of up and coming bends in the road: a novelty after a couple of thousand kilometres on endless straights.  

Mary River

Now we are camped at the junction of the Great Northern Highway and Victorian Highway, 46 kilometres west of Kununurra. In plenty of time to capture and absorb a typical Kimberley sunset.

 

Broome

De Grey campsite

 

It was an early start from De Grey River campsite as we had a big travelling day to Broome; some 500kms. We changed drivers regularly so one could rest on the couch and read a book; keeping cool under the air conditioning vent. There was little to look at out the window: a smattering of RV’s and road trains, three touring cyclists (what they were doing out in this heat I don’t know!) and a black cat. A fuel and rest stop at Sandfire Roadhouse was a pleasant diversion, complete with roaming peacocks and pea hens (including a white one!). Eddie and Kathleen Norton took a gamble in the late 60’s to set up a service point halfway along the 600km stretch from Port Hedland to Broome, as travellers were often stranded after breaking down or running out of fuel and/or water. They started trading in 1970, the road was sealed in 1981, and the business is still run by the family. For this reason, I believe, it’s one of the better roadhouses that you’ll find in WA as it’s well cared for.

 

 

 

Eventually we arrived in Broome: the palm trees, bougainvillea and the humid air soon let us know we were in the tropics. We drove out to Gantheaume Point to view the scene from mum’s toilet door poster before the sunset crowds congregated, and had a good view of the infamous Cable Beach to the north and the ochre rock formations. Unfortunately there were neap tides so we couldn’t explore for dinosaur footprints below the cliff.



 



We spent a relaxing evening at the Recreation Caravan Park (recommended), chatting to our neighbours Jill and Dennis from New Zealand, then rose early for a bike around the town centre, including China Town (or Tourist Town). Much to my horror Gary requested McDonald’s for breakfast, as it had been six months since he was last exposed to fast food. However, if that’s what will get him on the road bike then so be it!

 

Next stop, Fitzroy Crossing.

 

Tom Price to Port Hedland

The majestic Mt Nameless was showing off its rich red face in the early morning light as I cycled in and around Tom Price, admiring the softness of the landscape before the harsh heat of the day. I had to get some exercise in before we were to be seat bound for the rest of the day.

 

As we travelled through Karijini National Park we passed Mt Bruce; WA’s second highest peak that we conquered in a four hour return walk last visit in July.

 

It’s not ideal walking weather now, because as we drove towards the Newman/Port Hedland intersection the temperature got hotter and hotter. The wind picked up too and whenever we stepped out of Delvy for a stretch and driver change it was like entering a fan forced oven. Once we turned left onto the Great Northern Highway conditions were compounded as 100 metre long road trains thundered past, each with four trailers, transporting iron ore from the Roy Hill mine to the coast, then returning empty to fill another load. Chatter on VHF Channel 40 was continuous. Gary, as co-driver, joined in the fray letting drivers know that “we’d back off the throttle when they wanted to come ‘round”, while I tightly held the wheel and tried not to get the wobbles up as these enormous vehicles overtook us on the narrow stretch of bitumen. At one stage I practically jumped out of my seat when a stone flicked up and slammed into the front of the bus: a broken high beam light was the victim.

 

The heavy vehicle traffic continued all the way into Port Hedland as this is where the iron ore is shipped to China, mostly. The sea breeze was most welcome as we pulled up at Marapikurrinya Park in the town centre to watch the loaded Capesize ships being maneuvered by tug boats out of the port.

 

The Court House Gallery was a sanctuary from the mining theme, and we thankfully crossed the threshold within minutes of closing. The 2014 Hedland Art awards were on exhibit, and we specifically wanted to see one in particular: Ningaloo, by Coral Bay’s resident artist Sadie James. She certainly got our vote for the People’s Choice Award.

 

After another ship viewing session, we fuelled up (again!) and drove 80kms out of town to our chosen campsite and enjoyed the huge reduction in truck traffic as the red sun sank behind us.

Reef to Desert

Once again we find ourselves in Western Australia's highest town, Tom Price, but this time we are continuing north east after visiting friends. We said our goodbyes to the turquoise waters of Coral Bay and have said hello to the red dirt of the Pilbara. The gentle rocking of the boat with the sound of water lapping on the hulls is now replaced by the stillness of the desert and early morning bird song.

Coral Bay

 

Bottlenose Dolphins

 

Wreck of the Fin and lighthouse on Fraser Island, Ningaloo Reef

 

Blue green Chromis, Scissortail Sergeant & Damsel fish

Photo credit: Matthew Shaw

 

Wildflowers

Spinifex grass

House Creek campsite

Campfire

 

After 5 1/2 months for Gary and 2 1/2 for me living and working on the Ningaloo Reef World Heritage Area, we are excited about our next adventure over on another reef. In the meantime, we'll enjoy the journey across the top of Oz to the east coast.