The Great Inland Way - Whitsundays to Bathurst

It was time for a change of scenery from the Whitsundays so on New Years day we set off in Delvy for a trip down south. The Great Inland Way extends from Cooktown in Far North Queensland to Sydney, the capital of New South Wales. We joined the tourist trail from west of Mackay through coal mining country at Clermont, home of the world's largest seam of steaming coal. It was a hot day with the bluest sky and whitest clouds I have ever seen, creating a magnificent backdrop to the vast, brown land. Every so often stark rocky outcrops broke the monotony of the flat landscape, adding interest as we burnt the kilometres.

On the road to Clermont

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn it was onwards to Emerald, the heart of the Central Highlands; named after the surrounding green fields and not the famous Sapphire gems found in the area.

Rest stop outback Queensland

The small outback towns of Springsure and Rolleston were next, and after getting lucky with finding a fuel store open on a public holiday, we decided to look at Carnarvon Gorge within the spectacular wilderness of Carnarvon National Park. Now summer is definitely not the time to visit due to the extreme heat, but as we were passing by the turnoff we thought why not. It's about 720 kilometres north west of Brisbane, so we are hardly going to come by this way again in a hurry. The 41 kilometre stretch from the main road is in the process of being completely sealed but still goes through a few creek crossings, and when the summer rains come they may be impassable. The white sandstone cliffs are visible in the distance as we wind our way to the visitor area: funnily enough we were the only ones there when we pulled up on dusk. Surrounded by countless eastern grey kangaroos and towering eucalyptus trees and native palms, we settle in for a long, hot, insect ravaged night. The eerie orange glow from the emergency Telstra public pay phone seems out of place in this completely natural setting.

Eastern Grey kangaroo with joey

We set off for a dawn stroll along the main walking track, crossing Carnarvon Creek and climbing up through blackened woodland and grass trees, catching glimpses of the infamous steep sided gorge. Already it was hotting up (forecast was for 38 degrees), so we backtracked to Delvy to prepare for another big driving day.

Carnarvon Gorge National Park

Carnarvon Creek crossing

On the main walking track, Carnarvon Gorge National Park

The stretch from the main road turnoff to Injune was the most scenic so far in outback Queensland, with a variety of wildlife to keep us entertained: emus, wedgetail eagles and very large goannas. This is cattle and timber country. We stopped for a Driver Reviver cuppa at the cypress pine log cabin Visitor Information Centre at Injune, then headed for the large service town of Roma. The accidental discovery of Australia's first oil and gas reserves catapulted Roma onto the world stage and subsequently the town boasts quite a number of heritage listed buildings. We stocked up on air conditioning belts whilst here - at least the relative humidity was down a few percent from the Whitsundays but it was still hot!

Sandstone cutting between Rolleston and Injune

We follow the Balonne River from Surat to St George, the fishing capital of inland Queensland, then onto cotton town Dirranbandi, home to nearby Cubbie Station, the largest privately operated irrigated cotton farm in the world. It's big country out here with lots of room to move.

Dusk was descending a little later the farther we moved south, so we took advantage of the extra light and kept driving. Kangaroos hovered in the scrub alongside the road but strangely seemed to have good road sense.  No roadkill littered the tarmac; instead scores of bird flocks darted out of roadside grasses as we approached. With recent rains there was plenty of grass seed to feed on.

We crossed the border into New South Wales, just south of Hebel, a typical Queensland outback village and where the Kelly Gang quenched their thirst at the local pub. I felt like I was coming home. Pink and orange coloured the sky as we pulled off the highway to the entrance of Lightning Ridge, our camp for the night.

Queensland/New South Wales border on the Great Inland Way

Entrance to Lightning Ridge

An early start as we were keen to get to our destination in Bathurst. The towns became a blur: Walgett, Coonamble, Gulargambone, Gilgandra, all hugging the Castlereagh River; and then through the more familiar towns of Dubbo, Wellington, Orange, to finally arrive in Bathurst, my former home town. 

Stretching the horses by the Castlereagh River, Gilgandra

Driving shift

Central West NSW between Orange and Bathurst

Total kilometres in three days: 2000. Total fuel cost: $370. 

Now to relax and enjoy the company of old friends and family.

Whitsunday sailing

At last, a four day break in the 'park', as locals like to call it. Not just any old park - it's the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in the Whitsundays, Queensland. 

Sailing, snorkelling, fishing and relaxing with a good book were the primary activities, as well as plenty of time to just soak up the views.

Departing from Shute Harbour, thanks to Sunsail, we hoisted the main and head sail of Ali Cat, a Leopard 444 catamaran, and let the wind decide where we would anchor for the night. At this time of year though the winds are a little fickle but there was just enough north easterly to get us into Cid Harbour for the evening. 

Ali Cat

While I had the luxury of an experienced local skipper (my husband) to navigate these waters and provide the commentary, I absorbed myself in the pages of 100 Magic Miles to bring myself up to speed. Now in its 11^th edition, David and Carolyn Colfelt’s guide provides exhaustive and reliable detail about every nook and cranny of the Whitsundays. Contrary to popular belief, the enormous all-weather anchorage of Cid Harbour was not used as a marshalling point for the US Fleet prior to WWII’s Battle of the Coral Sea, but was used occasionally as anchorage for the Australian and Allied navies. 

Sunset at Cid Harbour

For spectacular views of the Whitsunday Islands, our younger, accompanying Italian friends, Ale & G, donned backpacks for the challenging three hour return hike from Sawmill Beach on Whitsunday Island to Whitsunday Peak (437m). Due to my inappropriate footwear and the heat, I opted for the easy one way one kilometre stroll through the dry vine forest; complete with massive hoop pines, to the stunning Dugong Beach, where my dinghy pick up was waiting to transport me to the first snorkel site of the trip.

Looking fabulous in my bright blue stinger suit, I grabbed my mask, snorkel and fins and plunged from the dinghy into the flooding tide between Ross Islet and Cid Island. Pretty soft corals and numerous fish rushed by as the current spat me out onto the sand spit at the southern end of the islet.

With the morning’s activities complete we weighed anchor and tracked south to navigate our way to Gulnare Inlet for some exploring. Whilst we didn’t need to visit such a well-protected anchorage in this sublime weather, it was a chance for me to take the wheel and practice some Coxswain skills. There is reef all around and a back bearing is required to safely enter the inlet to avoid going aground. I was glad I was under the tuition of an experienced teacher! 

View of Henning Island from Gulnare Inlet 

As we were still on a rising tide, as soon as we dropped anchor we were off exploring the mangrove-lined estuary and creeks. We tried to find the old tramway that was built to move timber from the surrounding hills in the early 1900’s, but the growth was too thick and the tide was turning against us. We did however find someone’s doomsday stash of diesel fuel and other survival equipment, hidden under camouflaged netting along a well-trodden track rising up from a natural stone landing.

As the afternoon sun reached intensity it was time for a siesta in air-conditioned luxury. With three private cabins, a large saloon area, and shaded forward and aft decks, there was no shortage of places for four people to chill out. 

Ghigo & Alessandra

On sunset, Gary took to the dinghy for a spot of fishing in amongst the mangroves while G and I calculated the depth and time of tide required to exit the inlet on the rising tide the next day using the rule of twelfths. Somehow I don’t think the glass of wine helped with the speed of calculation but eventually we ascertained that we could depart at 10.00am, therefore we could all have a much needed sleep in.

The silence was ominous overnight. – not even the sound of water lapping on the hulls could be heard. Such stillness is rare on a boat.

After completing a few jobs on the vessel and checking for any maintenance issues, we departed Gulnare and tried for a snorkel off Henning Island. The north wind and strong current made it not ideal, so we sailed north along Whitsunday Passage to Homestead Bay on the eastern side of Cid Island. The current was pretty strong but there were some interesting coral formations and a few fish to look at. 

Navigating out of Gulnare Inlet

Our next destination was Hook Passage and the drop off point for the Whitsunday Cairn trail. G was keen for another challenging bushwalk up 386 metres, which only took him less than two hours return – well under the suggested four hours. While he was sweating it out, the rest of us went exploring in the dinghy. I envied the Hook Island Wilderness Resort opposite, now closed. What I could do with that to bring it back to life! If only I had an endless supply of money. The Hook Underwater Observatory still stands looking quite dilapidated, but it was once the showcase of the Whitsunday Islands when it was opened in 1969 after three years of construction. Ray Blackwood’s Whitsunday Islands: an historical dictionary has all the details, including the interesting fact that two hundred old car bodies were dumped at the base of the structure to provide a habitat for fish and coral. There were no decommissioned navy ships available back then!

Time for a snorkel, and although the tide was still too high the reef area between Scrub Hen Beach and Hook Passage was extensive with a fabulous variety of coral and fish plus a few turtles. Gary cast the fishing rod line a few times and surprisingly hooked a coral trout. Unfortunately it slipped off the hook and slid in under the floor of the dinghy into the hull. It took some time to get it out by raising one end from the davit, but eventually it plopped out and swam away. It was undersized anyway.

Gary the dinghy man, Hook Passage

It was time to head for our overnight anchorage at Macona Inlet, chosen to meet up with a friend who was skippering a group of Venezuelans for a week. As we slowly motored towards the far end of the inlet a baby hammerhead shark swam up to the starboard hull. These still and shallow waters provide a perfect breeding ground for hammerheads so enter if you dare.

Orca at Macona Inlet

Our last day and we saved the best snorkel spot till last – Ravens Cove, the southern end near Turtle Head Rock. The tide was low (the best time to snorkel), visibility was about 10 metres, and the coral was stunning. So many hard and soft varieties, and the fish life was abundant both small and large. I even saw an albino bat fish. After two hours in the water it was time to head back to Shute Harbour, via Unsafe Passage through the Molle Island group. 

Ravens Cove snorkeling site

Through Unsafe Passage between Mid and North Molle Island

There are so many wonderful places to visit in the Whitsunday Island group that doesn’t have to include the place everyone goes to, Whitehaven Beach. Can’t wait for the next trip! 

Chart AUS252 - Whitsunday Group. Don't sail with out it!

Top of the Whitsundays

Located in the northern section of the Whitsundays in Queensland, Bowen is only a 45 minute drive from the more well-known Airlie Beach. This small town is often overlooked, which is unfortunate as there are many beautiful, pristine beaches and spectacular coastal views which are worthy of a visit.

Azure waters, shell speckled sand and the surrounding rocky outcrops of Grey's Bay make this one of the prettiest beaches in Queensland. The free barbeques and adjacent playground amongst enormous shady trees is an ideal place for a family picnic.

Sunset at Grey's Bay

Further along Cape Edgecumbe is the small and cosy Horseshoe Bay, with crystal clear waters and spectacular coral reef just metres off shore: perfect for a swim or snorkel.

Horseshoe Bay 

Leading up from Horseshoe Bay, walk to the lookout on the Cape Edgecumbe Walking Trail for breathtaking views of the coast line. Continue along the trail to the World War II radar station and anti-aircraft battery remnants for more scenic views, before dropping into Murray Bay: a secluded and sheltered bay lined with coconut trees and pandanus.

WWII radar station site

Pandanus

Murray Bay with Kapok tree, Bowen's floral emblem, in foreground

After a refreshing swim, rejoin the trail to Mother Beddock, a large imposing rock balancing precariously on a granite outcrop. Soak up the view of Gloucester Island and Bowen township before descending to the award winning beach of Rose Bay; a favourite spot for a fish, snorkel or swim.

Mother Beddock in the late afternoon sun

If you want to stride out, then continue on to the often deserted Kings Beach with sweeping long stretches of sand. Kite surfing and fishing are popular pastimes here.

Rose Bay & King's Beach

North west of the town is the longest of Bowen’s beaches. The five kilometre white sand of Queen’s Beach is a favourite with walkers, and has a fitness trail running parallel with the coastline.

Queen's Beach

Finish your beach tour in the centre of Bowen at Front Beach. View the tugs on the jetty, splash around in the Water Park, learn about the Catalinas (flying boats) stationed here during World War II, and the town’s role in the making of the movie Australia.

Low tide at Front Beach with Gloucester Island looming in the background

Whitsunday flying

This morning we were introduced to the Whitsunday Flying Friends at a fly-in breakfast at 'Heathrow' in Lethebrook.  They are a friendly bunch who regularly meet at various airstrips between Bowen and Mackay for some breakfast and chatter about all things aerial. Over delicious pancakes made from farm fresh eggs, it was exciting to hear tales of flying adventures, making us keen to hurry up and each get our gyroplane pilot licence.

We both were fortunate to be taken up in the host's light plane for sensational views of the O'Connell River, Repulse Bay and the Whitsunday islands. With plenty of sugar cane paddocks to land if need be, this wide open area would be an ideal place to get the hang of flying solo when that time eventually comes. Thanks to our hosts, Ian and Julie, for a great morning.

'Heathrow' fly-in

Gyroplane envy

Plane park

Savannah

Heathrow airstrips

O'Connell River estuary & Laguna Quays Resort

O'Connell River

Coming into land

Hamilton Island Race Week

It's not only a lot of fun but a privilege to jump on board a racing yacht. Merit, a Volvo 60, offers day trips to Whitehaven Beach from Hamilton Island, plus corporate match racing with sister vessel Spirit.

Take the wheel on board the Volvo 60 Merit

Merit, a Volvo 60 racing yacht

It's a big mainsail

Chalkies Beach, opposite Whitehaven Beach

The majestic Pentecost Island, Whitsundays

Today sees both yachts joining Hamilton Island Race Week, Australia's largest offshore keel boat regatta, and you could be a part of it. Places are available for a day or the whole week of racing. Book with Grand Prix Yachting for an awesome opportunity to sail around the pristine World Heritage Area of the Whitsunday Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

Whitsunday wallabies

We consider ourselves lucky to live amongst some of Australia's cutest wildlife. The endangered Proserpine Rock Wallaby is endemic to the hill that we live on, plus a few other small pockets of national parks in and around Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays.

The Proserpine Rock Wallaby is a timid mainly nocturnal marsupial that lives amongst rocky outcrops. It is not often seen, however we have a covenant on our land that provides precious habitat for the wallaby so we get to see them quite regularly.

Proserpine Rock Wallaby. Image courtesy of Reef Catchments.

A friend of mine is a wildlife carer for Fauna Rescue Whitsundays and has been looking after orphaned Proserpine Rock wallabies for 10 years. The babies are a delight to watch bound around the living room - they are so curious and so very cute.

Baby Proserpine Rock wallaby - two months old approx

Feeding time

Sailing the Whitsundays

Every now and then I get to accompany my husband when he's working. That probably doesn't sound very exciting, but when his job is to sometimes deliver sailing boats to and from Hamilton Island and Shute Harbour or Airlie Beach then it's a different story.

Lazy sail back to Shute Harbour

Sailing around the beautiful Whitsunday Islands in Queensland is arguably one of the most scenic and best cruising grounds in the world. Ask anybody who's done it, in particular those that have sailed here and have never left!

While you can enjoy overnight tours that are fully crewed and will take you to all the top spots, you can actually charter a vessel yourself, with no prior experience. It's called a bareboat charter and there are various types and sizes of vessels to choose from, which can be hired from 5 nights or more from a variety of bareboat charter companies in the Whitsundays. To skipper yourself, and your family or friends, is the perfect way to independently explore the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

Sailing the Whitsundays

Once you have made your bareboat booking, you can either organise your own provisions or get someone else to do it. It's often easier to have it all organised before you arrive so that you can maximise your time out on the water.  Before setting off you though, you are given a briefing on the operation of the vessel, including sail instruction if your boat has sails, and where you can go and what you can do in the marine park. This usually takes about 4 hours; less if you have had previous boating experience. Once the bareboat briefer has signed you off then you are free to discover the jewels of the Whitsunday Islands, including the famous Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island.

Anchorage at Betty's, near Whitehaven Beach

Sail, snorkel, swim to your heart's content. Visit deserted beaches or island resorts. Take a bushwalk or try and catch a fish. Anchor in a secluded bay and soak up the stunning sunset.  The choice is yours.

Sailing across Whitsunday Passage in 15-20 knots of breeze

Hamilton Island Marina

Twice each day, morning and afternoon, you are required to radio the bareboat charter company of your daily plans and overnight anchorage. This is so the company knows of your whereabouts and can easily organise assistance if you need it. At the end of your amazing charter, you are debriefed by a company representative to ensure all went well.

This is where my husband comes in, as he briefs and debriefs bareboat charters and delivers vessels to where they need to be. Lucky for me sometimes as I get to come along for the ride.

Departing Shute Harbour for Hamilton Island

Those that experience cruising the Whitsunday Islands say that it's the best holiday they have ever done, and usually come back for more. So, what are you waiting for? Book now for a holiday of a lifetime.

Sunrise at Shute Harbour