Adventures of Delvy : Tropical North Queensland MTB fun

Relaxing back on the farm, we’re enjoying the peace and quiet after a full dance card Delvy trip to the Atherton Tablelands to ride the region’s mountain bike (MTB) trails. A bonus was catching up with friends and exploring new places along the way.

motorhome with mountain bike parked in forest

An MTB Delvy adventure to Tropical North Queensland

Leaving Jobey Doh on the Redcliffe Peninsula, it was time for a land holiday. First, we headed south to see family on the Gold Coast, then headed north to chase the sun and overnight temperatures greater than four degrees Celsius. After years of trying to convince the Gateway Bridge toll collectors that Delvy is a motorhome and not a commercial vehicle, we were finally spared from taking out a small bank loan to pay for the convenience of travelling over the bridge twice in as many days.

Taking Maxie for a walk on the Gold Coast

By the afternoon we were hitting one of our favourite MTB trails, the Ferny Loop near Landsborough; a fun and easy green singletrack, perfect for getting back into it after months on board a boat. The State Forest has this land earmarked for logging so we made the most of it and tore around it twice the next day. It would be a shame to lose this popular recreational area so we signed the petition before heading off to see more family and friends and the long drive to the Whitsundays for a week’s work (yes, we do work from time to time!).

The Bruce Highway was busy, the busiest seen for a couple of years, and in poor condition. Road works are at their peak – why they couldn’t be done when the whole country was in lockdown is anybody’s guess. Some of the wait times at the mobile red lights were so long that I was able to jump over the back and make a cup of tea from the pre prepared thermos before we got moving again. Got to love a motorhome. It also makes us near perfect houseguests, arriving with our own accommodation. A flat driveway, or street parking is all we require, and the occasional use of a washing machine is much appreciated to wash our smelly bike clothes.

The Bruce Highway, aka the Roadworks Highway

Horseshoe Bay, overlooking Whitsunday Sands Resort, Bowen

With the fuel funds topped up, we departed blowin’ Bowen (the SE wind didn’t fall below 30 knots for the whole week), and joined the northbound procession of hundreds of caravans, RV vehicles, trucks and general traffic; right in the middle of school holidays. No wonder it was busy. Last time we travelled north was in September 2020 when Fortress Queensland was closed to the world, and the handful of other motorists were unfazed by our average speed of 85 km/h.

Busy everywhere: full house at the resort

Each time we travel up and down the highway, we like to stop at different places for a look around. After driving past the roadside butterfly shaped signage for the Ayr Nature Display numerous times over the years, this time we stopped. Wow, what a fantastic display it is too. Except for a handful of shells, the entire collection is the life work of a married couple and it is displayed all in one room, which the daughter is now the proud custodian. This really is a must-see attraction.

A unique private collection of shells and butterflies

The $5 entry fee is such good value

Onwards to Townsville where old southern friends have recently relocated, and where MTB trails await. Having only ever spent time in the city, it was great to hang out in the suburbs and get a local’s perspective. Conveniently located near the Palmetum, a botanical garden featuring only palms, and the Ross River Bikeway it was an easy, scenic ride into town or to Douglas MTB Park. No car or motorhome required to get around, especially as we have e-bikes. The extensive network of MTB trails was just as rocky and technically challenging as I remember from a few years ago, but the views are still magnificent and the signposting has improved. Our host was a fantastic guide and Gary enjoyed riding with someone as capable as him. I’m more of a green trail rider myself; I can do the blue (intermediate) trails, but would prefer fewer rocks. I guess I’m still nervous from breaking my arm back in 2013 at Mt Buller.

Easy, scenic bike paths all along the Ross River and The Strand

Family bike ride :)

View from Douglas MTB park

Another great trail, and a new one for us is Cape Pallarenda, a 17km cross country loop in a bird and crocodile filled conservation area with majestic Magnetic Island views. Under a tropical blue winter sky and 24 degrees air temperature, it doesn’t really get much better. Even when we had to repair a broken chain link halfway round, with neither of us 50 plus year olds having any seeing glasses, our spirits weren’t dampened: it was really quite a spectacle. A spare pair is now permanently in the riding backpack.

Two MTB riders overlooking water and island

Another great view, this time from Cape Pallarenda

Deciding whether to ride over the obstacle or walk it.

Continuing north we made a stop at Cardwell as it’s only one of two places that the Bruce Highway runs alongside the sea. Being boaties, we don’t want to stray too far from the ocean. Next stop, Yorkeys Knob and more friends. Thinking we’d do a tourist thing like the Scenic Skyrail, which I have not experienced but used to sell to anyone travelling to Cairns back when I worked for Queensland Travel, the weather had other things in mind. Unseasonable rain clouded the mountain range for a few days, so we gave it a skip and hung out at the beach in the comfort of Delvy and read books.

Cardwell Jetty, a popular stop along the Bruce Highway for a leg stretch.

Yorkeys Knob Beach

The inclement weather continued as we drove up the MacAlister Range: the rainforest was living up to its name. Heading towards Mareeba we caught a glimpse of a sign, “Davies Creek MTB Trails”. Unaware of this park we back tracked for a look, navigating the 2.5 kms of corrugated dirt road and two water crossings to arrive at the MTB car park on sunset. Before we went out of internet range, we discovered this park rides best just after rain, so it was perfect timing as the sun was due to come out the next day. We had to get through the night first though. Hunkered down watching “Stranger Things” we thought we were the only campers on this dark, wet night. Suddenly a light flashed around us and when we both peeped out the curtain for a look, it shined straight at us. This was our very own Belanglo State Forest moment. Who was it? We don’t know but they soon drove off and left us in peace, but with hearts racing. The morning blue sky was a welcome sight and we were keen to get on the bikes. Fast, tacky trails through open forest with creek crossings, we had it all to ourselves. It was so much fun we returned a week later for more.

Delvy camp at Davies Creek MTB trail head

Perfect winter bike riding temperatures on the Atherton Tablelands

Just us and the forest.

A couple of challenging bits but overall easy, fun, fast trails.

With such a great introduction to the Tablelands we were looking forward to further exploration. First though, some housekeeping. At Mareeba we lined up with other self-contained vehicles to fill with potable water, and then lined up again to use the dump station facility. Did I mention it was busy? We dropped into the information centre for some brochures, and had a gold coin donation walk around the attached museum before travelling on to Ravenshoe.

Passing the Rocky Creek War Memorial Park, we admired the magnificently restored 42 x 22 metre steel framed igloo (Quonset hut), one of six remaining around the district, left over from WWII when 100 000 troops were stationed here. An Australian Defence Canteen igloo was built at the Atherton Showgrounds in 1943, and now houses the monthly Lions Club market selling locally made handicrafts crafts, collectibles and homegrown products. It was a great opportunity to see the marvellous architecture inside and out.

A privately owned Quonset hut leftover from the war.

The things you see for sale at a local market

Travelling around can’t all be fun and games; there has to be maintenance days to ensure all the toys operate well. We took advantage of our friend’s driveway in Ravenshoe for some bike and Delvy maintenance, and after working hours was rewarded with a guided tour of the local sights: Big Millstream Falls and the Innot Hot Springs. The days were beautifully warm and sunny but thermals and beanies came out at night, along with the smell of woodfires burning. We ate a warming curry at Queensland’s highest pub, and the following day we travelled along Queensland’s highest road, at 1163 metres, to visit Crater Lake and the historic town of Herberton.

MTB repairs and upgrades

Twilight walk in the forest

Sunset at Big Millstream Falls

Soaking in the naturally-heated geothermic pools on Nettle Creek

Funky rainforest shapes at Mount Hypipamee National Park

Old worldy Herberton main street

The Herberton Historic Railway

With new chains and back tyre, it was time to hit the well talked about Atherton MTB Park. Once again, we had a local guide: always great to have someone who knows where to go as it makes it more fun if you can keep the flow going. Delvy became a fixture of the car park for three days: people stopped to chat, including a lady we met at Davies Creek. She mentioned that Atherton is the best park she has ever ridden, and we have to agree it’s high up on the list. It’s well signposted, and the trails are linked so you can do short or longer rides depending on your ability. The forest is plentiful and there are a few fun creek crossings.

Scenic roadside views at 930 metres asl

Atherton MTB park, the home of mountain biking. Yeah!

Rocky narrow trails to the top

Lush, smoother trails at the bottom

It wasn’t all mountain biking though. I hiked up Yabi Mountain for grand views of Atherton township and Lake Tinaroo. We met more friends at Lake Barrine and walked the 5km circuit after a tasty lunch and scones at The Teahouse, followed by some bird watching at Hasties Swamp Hide. At Kuranda we joined the many other tourists for a brief wander around the rainforest township: apparently it becomes a ghost town after the departure of the last daily train and Skyrail. There were a few empty shops, no doubt due to the Covid pandemic but we contributed to the economy and bought a hat and some tasty fruit sorbet.

A short ride on the roadie from Delvy to the start of the hike

View from the summit; would be best in the afternoon

A 500 year old strangler fig tree: its aerial roots drop 15 metres to the forest floor.

Pretty Lake Barrine, a peaceful place in the late afternoon

Returning to the bottom of the range, it was time to checkout the showcase MTB trails of the region at Smithfield. We arrived at peak hour though, amid the after-work rush before it gets dark, which descends early and quickly in the thick rainforest. Unused to sharing the trails with so many, we tried not to get in the way of the locals but found ourselves bumbling our way around, getting lost, missing the signposts that had fallen and not been resurrected. We did find a great campsite nearby, so we spent the next day familiarising ourselves with the trails and had a hoot while everyone else was at work.

Delvy at Smithfield MTB park

Gary carving it up

Another friend visit and this time a guided walk up the Douglas Track in the Barron Gorge National Park for marvellous views of Cairns. We could see the Skyrail from our viewpoint and decided next time to hike all the way to Kuranda and catch the cableway back down. I will get to ride it one day!

View from the Douglas Track

My local guide, Sian.

It was time to return south, stopping at the pretty town of El Arish, founded in 1921 as a soldier settlement area and named after the Egyptian town where the Australian Light Horse saw action. As it was a clear day, we stopped at the Hinchinbrook Lookout for magnificent views of the island and channel, before arriving at the TYTO wetlands overnight camping area in Ingham.

The El Arish sign on the right came from the movie set of The Lighthorseman

Spectacular Hinchinbrook Island and Channel

Ingham campsite at the TYTO wetlands

Last time we visited Ingham, it was just after Cyclone Debbie: it was hot and we were a bit miserable as we had to move out of our home due to extensive damage. We still enjoyed the town but were looking forward to exploring more and in a better frame of mind. The local Saturday morning Parkrun routes around the TYTO wetlands; it’s one of the best courses in Queensland as there is no concrete involved. I walked/jogged with another visitor and achieved my best result ever; 3^rd across the line. There were only five participants. Afterwards, we rode around the town parklands, admiring the large trees and greenness, and then returned to the wetlands, to spot a few birds. We also saw a crocodile basking in the sun, pointed out to us by a regular birder. Maybe that’s why the numbers are low at Parkrun?

Delvy view

Pretty lagoons with waterlillies

TYTO Parkrun buddies

After dragging our feet, we departed our lovely campsite behind the information centre and returned to Townsville for another two marvellous days and nights with friends. It was then on to Home Hill where we secured the last overnight RV space at the Comfort Stop by 3.00pm.

Full house at Home Hill alongside the railway line

Smoke filled air and crackling sounds of sugarcane burnoff

Back to familiar territory; Bowen, the Whitsundays, and the farm to hang out with friends, the chickens and horse and prepare for the next adventure – a yacht delivery. Thanks to all our friends and family for your hospitality and good company. It’s just not about where you go, it’s the people you meet up with along the way.